Maytag dryer - no heat

Dryer Repair
,
1

My Maytag gas dryer just stopped heating. I opened up the front & turned it on & there was no flame. I’m not sure how to tell wich part it is that is in need of repair.

3

There are five major electrical parts involved in the heating process:

  1. Hi limit thermostat
  2. Cycling thermostat
  3. Igniter
  4. Flame sensor
  5. Gas valve coils

How to find out which part causing the problem?

Pretty simple: all of these parts have to be tested for continuity in the above sequence.

The following article on our forum will explain in detail how to run a continuity test using either an analog meter or a digital meter - [AP276896](http://forum.appliancepartspros.com/oven-repair-including-ranges-cooktops/4810-how-check-continuity-ohmmeter.html"]How To Check Continuity With Ohmmeter[/URL]

If any of them is open – it has to be replaced.

Gas valve coils also could be tested by resistance. There are two coils – one with three terminals and one with two terminals.

  1. Coil with two terminals should have 1220 ± 50 Ohms
  2. Coil with three terminals if held with terminals in upper position:
    a) across the left and the middle terminals – 1365 ± 25 Ohms
    b) across the left and the right terminals – 560 ± 25 Ohms

The first four parts are located on or around the gas valve, the cycling thermostat is located on the blower cover.

Good luck.
Gene.

4

Thanks. I will test that. I apreciate you’re assistance.

5

Ok, no heat at all coming from my Maytag Gas Dryer. I did alot of research on the net and found this thread. This is what I did so far.

  1. Checked cont on fuse
  2. Checked cont on thermostat
  3. Checked cont on the coils (both)
  4. Checked flame sensor and it gave me a value of 1.?? Would that be the problem
  5. Checked Ignitor and got an Ohm reading of 87. From what I read that is ok. I don’t see any cracks.

At this point I have hit the wall. Any suggestions before I just go out and buy a new one? I hate to do it…

  • Erich
6

Hi Erich,

Did the igniter glow when you used the dryer?

I did not understand what reading did you get on the flame sensor. Normally it suppose to be very close to 0 Ohms (closed circuit).

What is the complete model number of the dryer?

Gene.

7

No Glow at all, went out and bought a new ignitor and no glo on that one either…unless there is another easy item to check I am about done… $100.00 in parts and no closer to a fix…unfortunately. I guess that is my fault, I bit off more then I can chew on this one. At this point I don’t see why I should even try the flame sensor again because the ignitor does not glow… :frowning:

  • Erich
8

Ok so should I check the flame sensor then? If so can you walk me through using my digital ohmeter to test it? I am a novice at using that but I can follow directions! :slight_smile: Thanks…I look forward to your answer.

  • Erich
9

Turn the meter switch to Ohm Rx1 scale, remove one of two wires from the flame switch and touch the flame switch terminals with the meter probes. The meter should beep and show 0 Ohms what means a closed circuit (good flame switch). Any other readings means the switch is bad.

Gene.

10

I have a Whirlpool ACE082XK0 AC/heat pump window unit - the AC works fine, but I can’t get any heat out of the unit (which I would like to do as it is now getting cool here in NC). Has anyone had this problem? I’ve wondered if the unit needs recharging??
Thanks.

11

Most likely you problem is the heating element, part number AP3007820.

Nat

12

where do i find the heating element do trouble shoot plus how do you ck. fuse thanks:confused:

13

Keith,

What exactly is wrong with the dryer?

Gene.

14

— Begin quote from Gene;560034

Sounds like the problem is a bad gas valve coils. Even if they pass continuity test, they can fail under the heat stress. It’s not expensive and worth to try.

Gene.

— End quote

Thanks Gene, I ordered the parts from an online vendor, standard 2-5 day ship, I had them in a day! Installed last night in 10 minutes… the dryer is up and running again. I didn’t have anything wet to run through it, but I ran it with some things in it for a few cycles of the flame and it came up each time. Tested having my fireplace running at the same time as well… no issues!

15

i’m having this same problem tracking(ignitor lights up on and off, puffs out a tiny flame and goes out)… i had a question about the cycling thermostat. it actually has 2 sets of prongs, i get 0 ohms across the two outer ones, and 7k across the inners. either inner to outer is open. i’m not sure exactly which set is supposed to go together.

also, one of my coils was just outside that range (the 2 coil was +100, instead of the +50 allowable)

thanks, this thread has been very useful…

btw, i’d have to replace the whole gas valve coil assy, mine is a MGDC200XW2 and it looks integral, with no coil only replacement part i can find… all the other parts look basically the same.

  • another update, i don’t know if this just means its infrequent, but i had the dryer stripped down, barrel and belt out, top propped up with the door switch fooled and the fire lit up fine (i only ran it briefly because it has no suction to draw the heat that way) put it back together and no worky.
16

dual evap side by side sweating left food side wall.replaced food gasket,freezer sensor and computer.temp at correct now,not too cold fz 2deg 38 fd. still sweating??

17

Check the diffuser and vents to ensure proper air circulation, then check to ensure light is going off when the door is closed, you can check it in the dark by cracking the door, or remove the bulb and see if that changes anything.
Some models are notorious for bad light switches.