maytag dryer no heat

Dryer Repair
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1

opened front panel and no flame. Igniter not glowing.Checked coils ok.I am guessing maybe I need a igniter?

3

There are five major electrical parts involved in the heating process:

  1. High limit thermostat (#17 on the [AP3094251](http://www.appliancepartspros.com/partsearch/model.aspx?diagram_id=655147&&model_id=47090"]gas valve break down diagram[/URL])
  2. motor break down diagramCycling thermostat (#8 on the )
  3. gas valve break down diagramIgniter (#4 on the )
  4. gas valve break down diagramFlame sensor (#18 on the )
  5. gas valve break down diagramGas valve coils (#7 on the )

How to find out which part causing the problem?

Pretty simple: all of these parts have to be tested for continuity in the above sequence.

How To Check Continuity With OhmmeterThe following article on our forum will explain in detail how to run a continuity test using either an analog meter or a digital meter -

If any of them is open – it has to be replaced.

Gas valve coils also could be tested by resistance. There are two coils – one with three terminals and one with two terminals.

  1. Coil with two terminals should have 1220 ± 50 Ohms
  2. Coil with three terminals if held with terminals in upper position:
    a) across the left and the middle terminals – 1365 ± 25 Ohms
    b) across the left and the right terminals – 560 ± 25 Ohms

Here are the break down diagrams for the Maytag dryer http://www.appliancepartspros.com/partsearch/model.aspx?diagram_id=649901&&model_id=47090

Gene.

4

Thanks Gene. I guess I really did not need to ask this question as you have answered it so many times in this forum.My igniter was cracked.This forum was a great help made changing this part a very simple process. Thanks again.

5

My front load washer does not complete the final spin cycle. The machine makes a humming sound or motor sound during the time it should be spinning whcih leads me to believe that it could be a belt problem. Water does drain from the drum before the spin cycle Tub does revolve back and forth during the agitation cycle.
What I do not know is how the drum is powered through the spin cycle. Is it a drum drive or direct drive. I haven’t taken it apart yet, partly because I am not sure the best way to gain access. I haven’t found a repair manual or help site that explains fromt load wahers very well. Is the means to power the drum through the agitation cycle the same way the drum is powered during the spin cycle.
Could the belt that spins the drum have slipped off or broken ?
Jim

6

Its the motor controller down inside the machine

7

Before you go through the expense of a new motor control board, take the back off the washer, and you will see the water pump. There will be a big fat hose, that comes from the tub, to the pump. It is very possible that the filter inside that big black hose coming from the tub, is clogged, stopping the drum from advancing into the spin cycle.

8

okbobcats said:
Its the motor controller down inside the machineWhat makes you think it is the motor controller?

where is it located on the unit how do I gain access to it and is there a way to test it?

9

My fridge is working fine but makes a rhymical moaning sound when the motor is running. What’s going on? How can I make it stop?

10

it on the bottom of the machine there is also a tech sheet on the side of the machine stuck to the side. it will tell you how to test the comtroller also it will let you test a few other things. but if the water is draing out completely the it most likely the controller.

11

My GE frontloader is doing the same thing. It pumps water out, but doesn’t spin. I have cleaned all of the change/baubles from the hose, no difference. Removed the belt, set the timer to Regular wash, started it, the moor doesn’t turn. hecked the speed control with a meter, it seems to be ok. How do you check the door lock switch to see if it’s out? I know how to remove it, but don’t know how to check it, or the timer switch, which seem to be the only two things left. Anyother ideas?

12

— Begin quote from kooler;51996

It would help some if you listed a model number but if your Hotpoint’s ‘moaning’ sound is more along the lines of a ‘distant train whistle’ sound then you’re fridge is a likely candidate for a new control board replacement… It’s also possible that this may be a warranty part so contact APPros or a local Pro with model AND serial number handy… cheers, kooler

— End quote

I have the same problem. I checked and remedied the most obvious things like dust accumulation but I suspected it was the control board. The fan inside the freezer speeds up and slows down and whistles like an old fellow taking a nap ;).

It’s a Hotpoint Model HSS25GFPJ WW. It was purchased by the previous homeowner in 2005 so I assume that I am not a warranty case.

13

My dishwasher runs about 3-5mins then it stops and has a flashing PF. Theres still water in the bottom of dishwasher as well. about 1-2 inches. I pulled out and checked the drain and pump. they seem fine. What could be causing this. Thanks

14

Here is your tech sheet
http://manuals.frigidaire.com/prodinfo_pdf/Kinston/154718601_EN.pdf

PF is power failure so it could be a loose connection somewhere.

First place to check would be the wire nuts if the unit is hard wired into the house wiring.

Could also be a door switch or the latch.