THE PROBLEM:
The dryer would stop heating occasionally and then finally seems to have quit. It still spins and goes through the motions. There is an orange glow inside as it attempts to ignite but it merely glows for a time, goes dark, and then repeats the cycle.
I located a reply to the post below, by Gene, that recommended testing several components for continuity and resistance.
http://forum.appliancepartspros.com/dryer-repair/4743-no-heat-gas-dryer.html
Thermal Fuse, Cycling Thermostat, Igniter, Flame Sensor, and Gas Valve Coils
However, the post wasn’t regarding my exact model so I figured I’d post my findings to see if there is a community consensus. Some of the component names also seemed to vary slightly so I tested all possibilities.
TEST RESULTS:
Part# 3392519
Desc: Thermal-Fuse (91C)
Page# 5
Diag# 46
Tested: Open
Part# 8573713
Desc: Thermal-Cutoff
Page# 5
Diag# 29
Tested: 0 Ohms
Part# 3391912
Desc: Thermostat, High Limit
Page# 5
Diag# 44
Tested: 1 Ohm
Part# 0686590
Desc: Ignitor
Page# 7
Diag# 4
Tested: 59 Ohms
Part# 0338906
Desc: Sensor, Radiant
Page# 5
Diagram# 45
Tested: 1 Ohm
Part# 0694540
Desc: Coil, 60 Hz. (2 Terminal) (Main)
Page# 7
Diagram# 13
Tested: Open
Part# 0694539
Desc: Coil, 60 Hz. (3 Terminal) (Split) (Pilot Position)
Page# 7
Diagram# 14
Tested: The 3 Terminal Coil has 518 Ohms of resistance from the Black to White terminals, but is open from the Blue terminal to either. (Blue is in the center.)
MY QUESTIONS AND CONCERNS:
-The thermal fuse on the blower housing appears to be open. (BAD?)
-Is a "High Limit Thermostat" the same as a "Cycling Thermostat? If so, do they need to be replaced together even though the High Limit had continuity?
-"2 Terminal Coil" is open. (BAD?)
-"3 Terminal Coil" Blue terminal is open to Black or White. I know it’s possible this contact is "normally open", but the info for the other model suggested otherwise. (BAD?)
An experienced opinion would be appreciated so I hopefully don’t order any unnecessary parts.
Thanks!