My electric dryer stopped heating. I have checked & double checked continuity on the heating coils, both thermal fuses, hi-limit thermostat, and the thermostat with five lugs (I get continuty on the opposite end lower lugs). All check out ok. What else could it be? I checked the outlet and have 240v across the two side lugs, 120v between others. It appears that the heating system is not getting power. Could it be a moisture sensor, conrol knob, or what??? HELP! BTW, I get 0 ohms across the lheating element leads, and I have disconnected one side of all things before I measure.
To test for continuity and resistance you need to disconnect both lead and use the meter to make a complete circuit. You should have 10 to 20ohms in your heating element.
Test again and let us know what you find out.
The problem seemed to be that the circuit wasn’t getting any power; I checked power at outlet, it was good. I finally opened the terminal block access & found that the light blue wire attached to L2 (red wire form outlet) had separated from the mounting lug and was just hanging. Turns out the nut holding it down was loose & the loose connection melted the solder at the wire where it connected to the lug. I installed a new lug to the wire, tightened all connections & the dryer works fine! I’m just glad it didn’t result in a fire or other calamity! Thanks for your help; I learned a lot about how this dryer works (too much!).
my dryer runs fine but no heat. I think I have the same type of problem. I think its the cycling thermostat. the two small lugs are the bias heater. the one lug and the lower lug on the one end are connected, until heating. I assume the upper lug should connect when it clicks and disconnect the lower, but mine does not.
it is bad? all my fuses and element are ok, post this thermostat.
Kit58105: post your model number.
You’re correct about the bias heater lugs. The way the thermostat works is that it has continuity between the two larger lugs, so that electricity can flow through it to the heating element. When a certain desired temperature is reached, however, the click you hear is the bimetal contact bending away from one of the lugs, breaking the electron flow to the element. In normal operation, as the thermostat cools, it clicks back into its normally closed position, again allowing electron flow. Check it when it’s cool by separating it from its wires, and checking across the two larger lugs for continuity.
sorry MDE6460ayw.
when you say larger lugs, there are 3 of the same size
1 at one end and 2 at the other. it seems that if that is for the heating element it should not be the problem. because if it’s closed the element should work. so maybe temp switch?
Your dryer has three thermostats: The cycling thermostat, located on the blower housing AP4038076 It has the bias heater discussed above. The hi-limit thermostat (the one with the three wires) is located on the heater housing. Measure resistance across the single and the top of the double terminals AP4036890 Then the thermal fuse. If it’s blown, the motor won’t even run. [part]AP4043259[/part].
I have the one with 5 lugs…2 for the bias heater, and 3 other lugs. the others test fine at room temp.
the 5 lug thermostat has 2 connected at room temp, that disconnect upon heating and there is no continuity between any of the 3 that are not the bias heater
I am assuming this is a basic Whirlpool made dryer. The two choices are the thermal fuse and the door switch, both of whom will stop the dryer from running.
Check both of these, and if you need more info please post a model number with the results of your testing and let’s see what we have.
thanks,
i did some more research and from what i read i was directed towards the thermal fuse. Thanks for the replay , i appreciate it.
Adrian
That’s usually it, be sure and clean out the lint chute, which tends to cause the problem.
Thanks for the update.
Hello
I changed the thermal fuse the door switch and the on of switch, it is still not working.
it is a kenmore 70 series model number 110.62702101
Any ideas would be appreciated
thanks
Adrian
Well this is frustrating.
At this point I think you are looking at the timer or the motor switch. If you are getting 110 to the start switch then the motor switch is more likely.
Hello again
You where correct it was the thermal fuse. When i ordered a part i ordered the thermal cut off kit. When this did not work i ordered the door switch and the on off switch. I then proceeded to take the whole dryer apart down to the motor, then i some how came across the thermal fuse. I took the long way around it but feel that i learned a little about the system. All this because of a simple misunderstanding. So to anyone who reads this, if you are told it may be the thermal fuse, this is not the thermal cut off kit.
Thanks again
Adrian
Well it can be confusing and I am glad you found it before you spent money on parts you did not need.
Just keep the lint chute clean and you should be fine. Thanks for the update.