Maytag MFD2561KES not cooling again

Refrigerator & Freezer Repair
,
1

hello,

  1. i have the maytag MFD2561KES that failed to cool again like a few months ago.
    2. i bought the compressor relay with capacitor and it fixed the issue for a month but now it failed the same way.
    notes:
  2. it does sound the buzzing like before too for about 10 sec every 2 minute or so.
    2. i noticed that before it failed like a few months ago, the water stops to dispense.
    3. the ice maker takes a long time to produce ice.

please help.

2

hi richappy,

Can you provide some pointers so that I can order parts for a DYI?
What can I do to sort out whether this is :
[LEFT][COLOR=#000000]system problem, clogged condenser, or a failing compressor?
[/COLOR][/LEFT]

I have no amprobe and but have a multimeter . I have taken some measurements between the relay /overload with capacitor between the old and new one and observed no noticeable difference when measuring resistance between C/S/R terminals.

And so I cannot conclude that this is a relay issue .Unless there is new one out there that can help alleviate this issue.

thanks

3

Give us the part # you replaced, It may have failed.

4

Whirlpool Overload / Relay With Capacitor 67005560

5

added the picture of the part that I replaced.
Could this replacement part also bad. Man, what a bad luck if indeed it really is

6

Pull off the start device. There are a triangle of compressor round pins on the device. The bottom two pins are the start and run pins. Measure across them, resistance should be between 4 and 7 ohms at room temperature. If open, the internal ptc device blew open. If so, get a new one and add a 1000 joule surge protector to the wall outlet, if good, your compressor is probably bad.

7

Pull off the start device. There are a triangle of compressor round pins on the device. The bottom two pins are the start and run pins. Measure across them, resistance should be between 4 and 7 ohms at room temperature. If open, the internal ptc device blew open. If so, get a new one and add a 1000 joule surge protector to the wall outlet, if good, your compressor is probably bad.

8

so you are saying , if the PTC is bad, I can replace it:
questions:
How does the PTC look like? Ist attached to the compressor ?is it easy to remove ? do you know the part number for that PTC for the refrigerator I am having issues with?

thanks again

9

It’s inside the black start device you used, just pry it off and do the measurement.

10

so I measured the resistance between the bottom pins s-r:
12.5 ohm

and between
s-c= 5.6 ohm
r-c= 4.2 ohm

11

Measure between the bottom two pins on the START DEVICE, not the compressor.

12

So I took some measurments as suggested:

start -run =12.5 ohm
start-C= 4.5 ohm
run- C= 5.6 ohm

Can you help conclude?

thanks

13

oops. repost, I will take the measurement on the start device and report later

14

Remove the start device from the compressor. There is a triangle configuration of pins with two of them side by side, measure the resistance between them, if open, you have a bad start device, just order a new one on this site.

15

I have an circa 2004 Viking 6 burner gas range.
Every 5 years or so I have to replace a spark module, periodically the oven igniters.

This time the oven went out and replacing the spark module nor igniters has brought it back to life.

When the oven knob is turned to start the oven, the light turns on indicating the oven is on, however, the igniters are not turning on.

What should I be looking at further upstream to troubleshoot this?

Thanks.

_Michael

16

MK, if the model number of your appliance could be provided, this will allow the most accurate information to be presented.