Maytag side by side is not defrosting. Fridge gets warm. I have manually defrosted it twice now and it works for a week or so. Some say adaptive defrost board and some say thermostat. I don’t know where the board is. How do I check to see which one. How do I manually put it into defrost mode?
You have to have a simple Ohmmeter to perform the troubleshooting. Let us know when you ready.
Gene.
If you have no meter, I would pull the back freezer panel and look at the defrost thermostat clipped to the top of the evaporator. If the top of it looks bulged, replace it AP4080326. If it looks ok, replace it and the adaptive defrost board behind the control panel. AP4010220
It is not easy to manually force defrost on this fridg, but if you replace both items mentioned, you will most probably fix the no defrost problem.
I am trying to replace those parts. This is probably a stupid question but how do I get the wire out of the white clip to put the new one in so I can connect it to the panel?
If you are talking about the adaptive defrost board connector, you pry up with your fingrnail between the ridged side of the connector and the plug.
I got the wire out of the white clip but now there is a metal piece on the end of the wire. There is not one on the end of the new brown wire. Do I take that off and put it on the new wire? If I do how do I take it off?
Which part are you talking about? Can you refer to the numbers on the following diagrams: Replacement parts for MAYTAG MSD2655HEW Ref - SXS/I&W | AppliancePartsPros.com?
Gene.
Here are your parts includes a wiring diagram.
http://www.appliancepartspros.com/partsearch/modelsearch.aspx?model=PYE2300AYW
Since you did not get an arc, the odds are you blew the thermal fuse (Item 5 in Section 5).
Note: That it comes with a new hi-limit thermostat. This is because the hi-limit should have opened before the fuse blew so they assume that it’s contacts must be welded together and it also needs replacing.
Unplug the unit and measure the fuse with a meter, should be 0 ohms.
Be sure to remove the wires going to one side of the fuse, this prevents you from reading an alternate/parallel circuit path.
Would not be a bad idea to also check your heating element.
Undo bothe sides of the heater and measure it. Should be around 12 ohms.
Then measure from each side of the heating element to the case/frame, both should be infinite ohms.
If not the element has grounded and needs replacing. A grounded element can cause the heater to run on high and the thermostats cannot regulate it so it blows the fuse.
If you do not own a meter, I would suggest you purchase a one. You can get a decent digital multimeter for under $20.00. You do not need fancy though it is nice if the leads are a couple feet long.
If it saves ordering one unnecessary part it has paid for itself and you end up owning a useful tool.
Most places will not let you return electrical parts so if you order it, you own it.
A couple things to watch when measuring ohms and continuity
- Always remove power from the machine otherwise you could blow your meter.
- Always disconnect at least one side of any device you are checking. This eliminates the possibility of measuring an alternate/parallel circuit path.
- When checking for closed contacts and continuity use the lowest scale (Usually 200 ohms). Then try higher scales. This scale is 0 to 200 ohms so if the device you are measuring is 300 ohms this scale would show an open circuit which it is not, you are just measuring outside the scale’s dynamic range.
There is a good STICKY at the start of this forum about it’s use.