Our refrigerator stopped cooling and I replaced the damper control after defrosting coils because the damper door was stuck shut. That appeared to fix the problem then refrigerator stopped getting cool enough and coils frosted over again. Need help trouble shooting.
Here are your parts
http://www.appliancepartspros.com/partsearch/modelsearch.aspx?model=MZD2766GEW
Here is a manual
http://appliancedigest.com/index.php?/files/file/480-16010154-maytag-refrigerator-service-manual/
Note: It covers a number of units so you have to be careful that the info applies to your unit.
You will have to join the site but it is gfree and a great resource for the appliance DIYer.
Sounds like you have a defrost problem.
First remove the evaporator cover in the freezer so you can see the coils.
Do not let them de-ice.
If they are heavily iced/frosted over you have a defrost problem.
If yes.
Manually force a defrost cycle, see Page 2-14 in the manual. The fans and compressor turn off when in defrost.
Now check the defrost heater to see if it is on.
Be careful you do not want to burn your fingers.
If the heater is on then the timer needs replacing, re: it is probably stalling during it’s rotation so is never getting into a defrost cycle.
If not on.
Unplug the unit.
Remove the wire for one side of the heating element (Item 12 in Section 4) from the wiring and measure it for continuity, usually around 20 ohms or so.
If the heater is OK
Remove one wire to the defrost thermostat (Item 12 in Section 4) and measure it, should be 0 ohms when frozen. Note that it opens just above freezing so must be frozen to check it. Also inspect it, if it is bulged at all replace it even if it measures OK.
On this unit the heater and thermostat are one assembly.
If both the above are OK then odds are the defrost timer contacts are toast.
Best way to test this is a live test to see if you have 120 volts across the heater/defrost thermostat combo.
Since the heater and thermostat on this unit are one assembly and forcing a defrost is a bit of a pain you may just want to check the heater/defrost. Then if it checks out OK just assume that the adaptive defrost board is bad.
If you do not own a meter, I would suggest you purchase a one. You can get a decent digital multimeter for under $20.00. You do not need fancy though it is nice if the leads are a couple feet long.
If it saves ordering one unnecessary part it has paid for itself and you end up owning a useful tool.
Most places will not let you return electrical parts so if you order it, you own it.
A couple things to watch when measuring ohms and continuity
- Always remove power from the machine otherwise you could blow your meter.
- Always disconnect at least one side of any device you are checking. This eliminates the possibility of measuring an alternate/parallel circuit path.
- When checking for closed contacts and continuity use the lowest scale (Usually 200 ohms). Then try higher scales. This scale is 0 to 200 ohms so if the device you are measuring is 300 ohms this scale would show an open circuit which it is not, you are just measuring outside the scale’s dynamic range.
There is a good STICKY at the start of this forum about it’s use.