You may want to start the troubleshooting from testing the gas valve/regulator (#15 on the diagram).
Remove the power from the range by turning off the corresponding circuit breaker. Remove the bottom drawer. Locate the gas valve/regulator with three electrical solenoids terminals on the back of the range. The middle terminal is Common, the upper terminal is Broil and the bottom terminal is Bake. Mark all wires for proper reconnection and remove them from the terminals. Using a multimeter, check for 216 Ohms resistance across each solenoid (Broil to Common and Bake to Common). If one of the solenoids is defective, neither one will operate and the gas valve/regulator would need to be replaced.
The resistance of both solenoids is within the range (216 Ohms ± 30).
Pull the range out of the wall and unplug the power cord. Remove the rear control panel cover. Locate the J1 connector at the spark ignition electronic board (#3 on the diagram). Reconnect the power to the range. When the unit is plugged in, there will be a 30- to 40-second delay before the oven system is operational. Using a voltmeter, check for 120 VAC by touching the probes between the pins 4 & 6 and the pins 4 & 7.
If both readings are correct, the Spark ignition electronic board would need to be replaced.
With the bake function enabled, I get a reading of 122.4 from 4 to 6 on J1. From connectors 4-7, I get a reading of 5.8v. Are these correct? What’s the next step?
Looks like the Spark Ignition Electronic board would need to be replaced.
Also, you have nothing to loose if you order the part from Appliance Parts Pros. If the new part would not fix the problem, you can easy return it.
That did indeed solve the problem. I’ve used it 3 days in a row now! Also, the new board provides a faster spark on the stovetop. Thank you Gene for your guidance in fixing my oven.