I have went through everything I have found to fix my dryer. The heating element, thermostats, power supply, air ducts, and I can find nothing testing bad.
The problem started with no heat on the times high heat but heat worked on the auto sensing high heat. Now I have no heat any settings.
It cuts on and off with the timer and the drum turns. The blower also works fine.
Here are your parts
http://www.appliancepartspros.com/partsearch/modelsearch.aspx?model=EED4400WQ0
See the attachment for the wiring diagram
I am sorry but I find the following confusing
You said "Now I have no heat any settings."
But then say "It cuts on and off with the timer"
Could you please explain the problem differently as the above seem to be in conflict.
If you put the unit in a timed dry cycle does the timer advance when the unit is on? It should advance if not then you either have a power problem (no 240 volts) OR a bad wire OR the heater centrifugal switch on the motor is not closing.
If you put the unit into an auto cycle does the timer advance when on?
If the timer advances in timed dry but not auto.
Leave the timer where it is.
Unplug the unit.
Place one meter lead on L1 (either the line cord or the terminal strip.
Now measure to the heater. The high limit side of the heater should measure 0 ohms.
Be sure to use your most sensitive meter scale and also short the meter leads together before starting so you can see if there is a zero offset in the meter.
The timer does advance correctly in all positions but no heat is produced.
Since the timer advances you know that you have the 240 volts and that the heater centrifugal switch is closing when the motor is running.
Unplug the unit.
Set it to a setting where there is no heat.
Tape or clip one meter lead to L1 either at the line cord prong or the terminal strip and leave it there.
Now work your way back through the heater circuit.
C, B and A on the timer should be 0 ohms.
Both sides of the thermal cutoff, operating thermostat and hi-limit thermostat should be 0 ohms.
One side of the heater should be 0 ohms.
The other side should be around 8 to 12 ohms.
If the thermal cutoff is blown then you have to find out what caused it.
A on the timer shows an open circuit. Does this mean the timer is bad?
Yes
As you an see from the wiring diagram whenever a heat cycle is selected B to A contacts on the timer must be close.
Thank you very much