Hi. Oven not heating up. Baking element measures 16ohms, but Voltage to element only 46VAC. Compared to broil element (which works) and sees 240VAC. Checked continuity of wiring back to the connectors on the electronic oven control PCB and 2-5 ohms…so good. Checked temp sensor (rtd) and measured 1100 ohms (OK at room temp). My guess now is that the relay on the oven control is the suspect. However, can it be removed and replaced, or is a whole new PCB required? I would love to swap K2 and K3 Relays (think they are the same) for the broil and bake to see if problem follows. Is there anything more I can do, or must I buy a whole new Control board? Thanks!
Does Anyone have access to the schematic of the 5304478041 control board? Any instructions on removal and replacement?
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Does Anyone have access to the schematic of the 5304478041 control board? Any instructions on removal and replacement?
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Sethf, You can swap the P7 and P8 wires at the control board and program a broil cycle, this will help verify whether the bake element and wiring are intact and working, but you CAN’T leave it that way, There would be no bake temperature control, and would help to pin point the issue to the control board. No one should have a schematic of the control board, this would be proprietary to the manufacturer or the production company of the board.
If the issue is the control board
[part]AP4564027[/part]
You will need to order and replace the assembly. Which isn’t that hard at all. Remove power to the range, slide it out a bit, and remove the screws holding the rear control panel cover to the console and end caps, label and disconnect the wires and harnesses.
The attached wiring diagram and Tech Data Information sheet should be helpful in tracing wires and circuits.
Thank you Joe M. Did you mean to swap P6 and P7 (Broil and Bake), not P7 and P8?
Also, since Pins P6-P9 are not on a removable connector (like the P2 or P10 connectors, do the individual P6 and P7 wires simply pull out of the header on the board?
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Thank you Joe M. Did you mean to swap P6 and P7 (Broil and Bake), not P7 and P8?
Also, since Pins P6-P9 are not on a removable connector (like the P2 or P10 connectors, do the individual P6 and P7 wires simply pull out of the header on the board?
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Seth, You’re correct the P6 blue wire and the P7 yellow wire. They would need to be "unlocked" and removed from the multi pin connector. It is probably easier to switch the wires at the elements, instead. Just remember to properly install them to the correct elements (broil/blue and bake/yellow) after you test the element.
If you feel safe, you can also program a bake cycle and check across P5 orange wire and P7 yellow wire for 220-240 VAC , but you’ll need to be careful with your meter leads, inserting them into the back side of the connector.