The Elements Are Good, I Replaced The Oven Temperature Sensor, Still Not Working. Whats Wrong With This Thing???
Can you post more detailed description on the problem please?
Here are the breakdown diagrams and http://www.appliancepartspros.com/partsearch/model.aspx?model_id=26260
Gene.
GENE, I placed a themometer in the oven and set the temp at 350. the oven temp only reached about 125.
Pull the range out of the wall. Remove the cover and check for 240 VAC to the Bake heating element while the control calls for Bake. If the reading is incorrect, replace the relay board (25 on the diagram).
- The relay board AP4102784
Gene.
Can you describe step by step how did you check the heating elements and the voltage?
Gene.
Gene , I pulled the stove out from the wall, removed the cover from the back of the stove, turned the oven on bake, took my meter and checked the voltage at the element and got a 240 reading, Oh, I did set the oven temp at 350.
You have to remove the wires from any one of the heating element terminals before measuring the voltage and before checking the heating element for continuity as well.
Measure the voltage between each of the wire and the chassis - 120 VAC, and between the wires - 240 VAC.
Turn off the power prior to the continuity test.
Gene.
Gene, I unhooked the wire from the element and checked the continuity, it checked 21.9 ohms. I then checked the voltage on each wire , wire to chassis, I got a reading of 121v and 122v respectively. Next???
Well, everything seems to be good. Put it back together and give it a try.
Gene.
— Begin quote from lagoss;441481
Gene, I unhooked the wire from the element and checked the continuity, it checked 21.9 ohms. I then checked the voltage on each wire , wire to chassis, I got a reading of 121v and 122v respectively. Next???
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Mr. Lagoss, thanks for doing all previous test, however you can still try a couple of other quick tests. Unplug the unit from power. Isolate the bake element wires with the element still screwed into cavity. Take the "Ohm" meter and place the red lead onto either of the element terminals, then take the black lead and place it on "Chassis" ground , preferibly on the terminal block green ground screw. This will test to see if your element is shorted to ground, allowing only a very small portion of the element to work at best. This is the part you need: [AP4283557].The next test is a visual one looking at the back of the clock control board where the black bake and broil relays are soldered on the board. If you see the solder has melted from the board, this means the bake relay has shorted and you will need a new oven relay board.Here is the part you need [AP4102784].When relays internal contacts get "sticky", they will allow voltage to pass and it will show 120v (apparent voltage) but the dirty contacts wont allow "amperage draw" to pass to the element as needed for correct operation. Please write us back if we can further assist you, Thank-You.
Gene, everythhig back together. Turned oven on bake at 350 degrees left it on for 20 to 25 min. and the oven only reached 240 degrees. Where to now??
lagoss said:
Gene, everythhig back together. Turned oven on bake at 350 degrees left it on for 20 to 25 min. and the oven only reached 240 degrees. Where to now??
Did the element get red at that time?
If not then perform the tests recommended by tedevans.
Gene.
lagoss said:
Gene, everythhig back together. Turned oven on bake at 350 degrees left it on for 20 to 25 min. and the oven only reached 240 degrees. Where to now??
Did the element get red at that time?
If not then perform the tests recommended by tedevans.
Gene.
GENE, the element got red hot it heated the oven up to a little over 200. ???
Looks like the problem is a bad control board. If you need the correct part number, post the serial number of the range.
Gene.