Problem with Maytag oven heating up after replacing part

Oven Repair (including Ranges and Cooktops)
1

Oven popped and smoked and control panel/display went blank, oven part would not work. I replaced the control panel. Panel now lights up but there seems to a problem with the oven heating. Takes about 1/2 hour to get to about 175…Any ideas??? Much appreciated.:confused:

3

Here are your parts
http://www.appliancepartspros.com/partsearch/modelsearch.aspx?model=MER5755QAQ

Here is a service manual etc.
http://www.servicematters.com/maytag_library/docs/16025644.pdf
http://www.servicematters.com/maytag_library/docs/16025646.pdf
http://www.servicematters.com/maytag_library/docs/TDC-0065-B.pdf

Check that both broil and bake elements are OK
Check to be sure unit is in Fahrenheit
Check power going into the unit. If it is bad the stove top elements also heat slowly.
Check the actual oven temp with an in stove thermometer

4

  • I tried the Broiler on HI and it gets very hot - works as normal

  • The stove top eyes work perfect and heat quickly.

  • I am not sure about the oven being in Farenheit

Would the control panel and Bake Element both have gone out. But is seems weird that the Broil still works? Any insight would be appreciated. Thanks

5

Would the control panel and Bake Element both have gone out.

The bake element may have blown, it might have produced a voltage spike and this may have taken out the control panel.

6

Thank You. I guess I will move on an order a new Bake Element and hope that does it. Thanks

7

I would suggest you purchase a meter. You can get a decent digital multimeter for under $20.00. You do not need fancy though it is nice if the leads are a couple feet long.
If it saves ordering one unnecessary part it has paid for itself and you end up owning a useful tool.
Most places will not let you return electrical parts so if you order it, you own it.
A couple things to watch when measuring ohms and continuity

  1. Always remove power from the machine otherwise you could blow your meter.
  2. Always disconnect at least one side of any device you are checking. This eliminates the possibility of measuring an alternate/parallel circuit path.
  3. When checking for closed contacts and continuity use the lowest scale (Usually 200 ohms). Then try higher scales. This scale is 0 to 200 ohms so if the device you are measuring is 300 ohms this scale would show an open circuit which it is not, you are just measuring outside the scale’s dynamic range.

There is a good STICKY at the start of this forum about it’s use.

8

Wow, I am having the exact same problem with my Amana AER5715QAQ. Last weekend my wife was making brownies, there’s a loud buzz, the lights dim a little and then nothing. Check the stove and the bottom of the oven is glowing red, there’s a small amount of smoke in the oven and clock is burned out. Stove top works.

So Monday I installed a new clock display and today I come home to my wife complaining that she’s trying to warm the oven to 350 and it had been stuck at 155 for 15 minutes. Broil is nice and hot, checked and I’m in F degrees.

I’ll check the sticky on voltage meters, I hope my analog needle sweep works. But it sure sounds like a new heating element for the lower level is needed. At least it’s significantly cheaper than the clock display. Thank you to everyone that helped this person (and me) with their problem.