Went to use dishwasher again after using just an hour or so earlier and nothing is working. I checked the power outlet in the wall and there is power there. After reading a few post on here replaced the latch switches with the new switches and wiring harness, still nothing. IM not too sure where to go from here, please help.
The reason I chose to replace the door switch kit first was one of the connections was burned out, see attached, only thing I saw that didnt look right.
Well I will see what I can do about that, either call a friend that knows what to touch and what not to touch, but the rates at which appliance repair callout will cost me is too mcuh for me to bitwe down on. If i am getting power to the unit what would you think would be the next thing to look at ?
Check the float inside the tub to make sure there isn’t a fork, spoon, gunk, etc. keeping it stuck in the up position.The next thing to check is the float switch, itself. Then see whether the door latch is activating the switches.
If you’re getting power all the way to (and through) the door switches, I would suspect either a touch pad or a control board.
BTW: I didn’t intend to insult you with my previous post. I just prefer to remind folks that safety is far more important than the conveniences of modern appliances.
Thank you for the suggestions, no insult taken, I just don’t want to spend $100 plus for someone to come and replace a $10 part, you know what I am saying. I am also appreciative of the warning on the electrical side of things, that is why i don’t like messing with it because I am un-educated in that side of things. Trust me i want to be safe too. Looking through here some more could it possibly be the thermal fuse, that and the door latch components seem to be a regular occurrence of problems for this model.
Check out the thermal fuse Item 4 in Section 1.
It should be 0 ohms.
Unplug/remove power from the unit and check the fuse with a meter.
If it is blown be sure to use the new harness that comes with it.
If you do not own a meter, I would suggest you purchase a one. You can get a decent digital multimeter for under $20.00. You do not need fancy though it is nice if the leads are a couple feet long.
If it saves ordering one unnecessary part it has paid for itself and you end up owning a useful tool.
Most places will not let you return electrical parts so if you order it, you own it.
A couple things to watch when measuring ohms and continuity
Always remove power from the machine otherwise you could blow your meter.
Always disconnect at least one side of any device you are checking. This eliminates the possibility of measuring an alternate/parallel circuit path.
When checking for closed contacts and continuity use the lowest scale (Usually 200 ohms). Then try higher scales. This scale is 0 to 200 ohms so if the device you are measuring is 300 ohms this scale would show an open circuit which it is not, you are just measuring outside the scale’s dynamic range.
There is a good STICKY at the start of this forum about it’s use.