There is occasionally (more frequent day by day) a clicking noise from the rear of the refrigerator. It sounds to me as a relay trying to kick in. It will make the noise for awhile (usually after door opening/closing) and then quit. During theses episodes, the temp displays will either not show or blink.
Any help appreciated.
THANX!
Check your model #
[B]PDS20MCRBB
[/B]Serial No. MG051153
Remove the motherboard cover in the back, if it’s the motherboard clicking, replace it as it will eventually fail AP4436216
thanx!
— Begin quote from KULTULZ;633875
thanx!
— End quote
hello - did this work for you ? I have the same issue, same fridge, and almost the same serial # !! Let me know - thanks !
— Begin quote from Anna’s Mom;653830
hello - did this work for you ? I have the same issue, same fridge, and almost the same serial # !! Let me know - thanks !
— End quote
Mom…
Mine suddenly stopped making the noise so I have not replace the board (I’m cheap).
With my luck it will ignite leading to a meltdown destroying half of the neighborhood… 
Say HI! to Anna for me… 
If you can’t afford a new board, I would locate the clicking relay by fealing each one, the big one is the compressor relay, the small one, the defrost. Then remove the cover with sharp wood chisel, then try to clean the contacts with fine emory paper, or just order a new one. Flush the relay out with non-residue contact cleaner available at Wall Mart.
— Begin quote from KULTULZ;654330
Mine suddenly stopped making the noise so I have not replace the board (I’m cheap).
With my luck it will ignite leading to a meltdown destroying half of the neighborhood…
— End quote
OK… I ignored the warning signs and advice. The noise returned but not as loud. Chose to ignore (another intelligent move). The freezer is still holding temp but the upper section is warm and showing fifty degrees…
Could this be as a result of the board failure or has the damage progressed?
— Begin quote from richappy;633734
Remove the motherboard cover in the back, if it’s the motherboard clicking, replace it as it will eventually fail AP4436216
— End quote
This seems to be the case. Is this replacement Part No Genuine GE? The character sequence seems to be different from GE Service Parts.
That is this site’s proprietary part #.
— Begin quote from richappy;686148
That is this site’s proprietary part #.
— End quote
Is it a direct GE Service Part or a generic replacement?
It should be a GE part, just ask befor ordering.
[B]PDS20MCRBB
[/B]Serial No. [B]MG051153
[/B]OK, I replaced the GE control board and now have the temp displays and the bottom freezer section works but no cooling to the refrigerator section. What did I allow to burnout now as a result of not replacing the board when I should have?
The condenser fan is working.
Is the compressor cold, or warm and vibrating?
— Begin quote from richappy;691556
Is the compressor cold, or warm and vibrating?
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When I removed the machine compartment access cover as directed in STEP 4 of the instruction sheet (power off), I found the compressor to be warm to the touch while performing dust patrol. I reinstalled the cover without checking operating touch temp. I will if you think necessary.
BTW- The refrigerator is now in continuous run mode and the freezer compartment is at correct (or set) temp. The refrig section is @ room temp.
THANX!
These compressors, GE ,are low hp units, they take longer to chill the box down.
— Begin quote from richappy;691713
These compressors, GE ,are low hp units, they take longer to chill the box down.
— End quote
But over 24hrs? I finally unplugged it as I feared it would damage something else running @ full speed. I followed that instruction sheet exactly (I hope) and there were no wires to cut @ J1 or was there a capacitor @ the power cord entry.
I have this strange feeling I have done something wrong.
So your advice is to let it run?
[B]AGAIN THANX!
PS[/B]- (French For I Forgot)
— Begin quote from ____
But over 24hrs? I finally unplugged it as I feared it would damage something else running @ full speed.
— End quote
I did not post this on the above post. My oversight. I plugged her back in at about 1500hrs yesterday and you see the post time (0200). When I checked it again this morning, it (refrig- not freezer) was # -1 and the box @ 70.
Did you check the model # prefix to see if you have to cut any thermistor wires? If ok, they may have shipped you a bad board as your damper door is apparently not working. If closed, plug in the old motherboard and see if the damper door now works.
— Begin quote from richappy;691782
Did you check the model # prefix to see if you have to cut any thermistor wires? If ok, they may have shipped you a bad board as your damper door is apparently not working. If closed, plug in the old motherboard and see if the damper door now works.
— End quote
Yes. There was no wire in Pin2 of the J1 connector (Step 2). Instructions read to proceed to Step 3- Install New Main Board.
Step 4- Cut Green Wire In Capacitor Board (Note- Only applicable for BOTTOM FREEZER models)
— Begin quote from ____
[LIST]
*] Remove the machine compartment access cover
*] Locate the capacitor in the plastic housing (no housing found)
*] If the capacitor is not present, skip to Step 5[/LIST]
— End quote
Step 5- Check Operation
— Begin quote from ____
[LIST]
*]Ensure that the unit is operating properly. Make sure the compressor and evaporator fan turn on. Check that the temperature board is functioning[/LIST]
— End quote
I reinstalled the grill before powering up. I watch the cond fan turning through the grill slots. I a$$-u-med the compressor was working as all sounded normal. The temp display lit up again. But the upper section refuses to cool while the freezer will give you frost bite… 
This was the same failure mode after the board stopped making clicking sounds. It went for a few weeks and the refrig section began not cooling properly.
…that this refrig had a damper door asm go bad and caused the resultant clicking from the control board? I did not (like a moron) confirm which component was making the clicking noise on the board. I simply replaced it after total failure.
While looking at the original board, it appears that there is a burn spot on a paper tag attached to the ground wire (GREEN). It appears the burn spot could have been against Component # C30 (?) or a component beneath it marked 30H-2003 DCGM 0414C.
Is it also possible the replacement board is defective? Where would one find the diagnostic sequence to identify, in the Repair Manual?