Re: Whirlpool DU1100XTPQ3. Couldn’t find tech sheet where it was supposed to be. What I’m looking for are the push button sequences to run diagnostics on the components so I can try to narrow down my problem. Problem has to do with flashing light. Not sure if it is door latch, heating element, sensor or what…Rick
Here are your parts
http://www.appliancepartspros.com/partsearch/modelsearch.aspx?model=DU1100XTPQ3
See the attachment for the tech sheet
Thanks much, denman…this should help…Rick
Denman:
I ran the diagnostic sequence, and it completed without stopping…run took about 16 -17 mins. When I went to run a load through, it cut off at about the 8 min mark and the light started the 7 blink sequence again. Shortly after it cut off, i reached in and felt the heating element and it wasn’t warm. I’m prepared to replace the element and the thermostat, but I want to be sure that those may be the only issues involved. This dishwasher is such a pain to get in and out from under the counter I’d like to have to only do it once…Rick
If you do not own a meter, I would suggest you purchase a one. You can get a decent digital multimeter for under $20.00. You do not need fancy though it is nice if the leads are a couple feet long.
If it saves ordering one unnecessary part it has paid for itself and you end up owning a useful tool.
Most places will not let you return electrical parts so if you order it, you own it.
A couple things to watch when measuring ohms and continuity
- Always remove power from the machine otherwise you could blow your meter.
- Always disconnect at least one side of any device you are checking. This eliminates the possibility of measuring an alternate/parallel circuit path.
- When checking for closed contacts and continuity use the lowest scale (Usually 200 ohms). Then try higher scales. This scale is 0 to 200 ohms so if the device you are measuring is 300 ohms this scale would show an open circuit which it is not, you are just measuring outside the scale’s dynamic range.
- When you start always short the meter leads together. This will tell you that the meter is working and if there is any 0 offset.
There is a good STICKY at the start of this forum about it’s use.
Check the high limit thermostat. It should be 0 ohms at room temperature.
Then check the heater it should be around 20 ohms.
Check that the door switch (upper right corner on the wiring diagram) is closed. It is in the heater circuit.
You may be able to fix it without pulling the unit.
This is how I would do it
Unplug or flip the breaker off.
Set the meter to it’s most sensitive ohms setting usually 200 ohms.
Remove the kick plate.
Most dishwashers are hard wired using wire nuts.
Remove the one connecting the white wires so you can use that as a test point.
Now put the other meter lead to one side of the hi-limit. You should be able to reach it. Then check the other side of the high limit.
If both sides read about 20 ohms (heater resistance) then odds are you have a control problem. I would check the wires that come down from the control board to the high limit and heater first just to be sure they are OK. Also see below.
If one side reads 20 ohms and the other is infinite then odds are that the hi-limit is toast. Remove one wire from it and measure across it, it should be 0 ohms.
If both side measure infinite ohms then the problem is either a bad wire, a blown heater or a bad door switch.
One thing to note is that a bad door switch may be a mechanical latch problem re: the switch is not being closed when the door is closed.
If all OK
Then check the thermistor, see the tech sheet. It’s resistance drops with temperature increase.
IF OK then check the wires from the parts back up to the control board.
If OK then odds are the control board is the problem.
Denman:
Got the meter, but I can’t reach it from under the kick place. Going to have to pull the unit out on Sunday (hopefully), so I have the good part of the day to work on it…Is there anything else I should check (other than the high limit, heating element and door switch) while i have it out?..Rick
Just a side note as I get into this thing…wife said that she ran the dishwasher on the pots and pans cycle last night and everything seemed to work fine including the heating element ("everything was pretty hot when cycle completed")…Rick
OK, the heating element is around 10.3 ohms and the high limit is about 0.3 ohms…Rick
Not a lucky day for you sounds like the unit may have gone intermittent on you OR perhaps a lucky day and it will continue to run.
You are sort of screwed trying to trouble shoot it if it is working OK.
Your readings look OK with one proviso, see below.
Could be that there was a control board problem and by removing power from the unit you reset it.
So here are possibilities if it starts acting up again.
- Did you short the meter leads before starting your measurements to be sure 0.3 ohms is a real reading and not just a zero offset in the meter. Sometimes you can see a low resistance just because you cannot make perfect contact to the connector. But it also could also indicate a problem with the thermostat’s contacts.
- Did you notice any signs of overheating at any of the connections re: the wire insulation crinkled or discolored or a discolored connector. This would be an indicator of a bad connection which you may have corrected when working on the unit.
I will keep my fingers crossed that the unit keeps on working.
Denman:
I checked the meter by shorting the leads and it jumped around a bit but didn’t really settle on a reading. When the leads were separated, the meter read 1.
None of the wires show signs of overheating. I’ll probably try putting the dishwasher back together and see if it runs OK. I also checked the switches and they read 0 when open and various numbers when closed. (hard to get a consistant reading).
I was wondering though, is there anyway to get the door to close tighter?
When I close the door and it latches, it seems a little loose and there is about 1/8th inch play when I press it tightly shut then let it go…Rick
I checked the meter by shorting the leads and it jumped around a bit but didn’t really settle on a reading.
Sounds like you may have a problem with your meter.
Try replacing it’s battery.
Also try cleaning your meter leads. A light rub with fine sandpaper or emery cloth should do the trick.
I do not know of any way to adjust the door.
I would check the strike and the latch itself.
Usually if the door does not leak the latch is OK.
Denman,
It’s me again…hate to keep bugging you on this, but I got everything back together and ran the dishwasher. On the normal setting, it went to the seven flashes again. I ran it on the pots and pans setting and it ran, what seemed to be forever, for a whole cycle. My wife was slightly mistaken on what she indicated to me. The dishwasher was not hot (from the drying cycle), but was warm, probably from the hot water temperature. Would this suggest the element?..Rick
Don’t worry about bugging me.
I would lean more towards the control board.
You could open up the door panel and check from P6 to White/Violet to see if the heater and hi-limit are OK.
Then check P6 to White/Black with the switch on the door latch closed.
If all OK I would replace the board.
Denman,
I got frustrated, as usual, the went and bought an element, thermostat and thermistor…hooked 'em up and ran the dishwasher on normal, and thought I was home free…got 22 mins. into the the cycle and it went back to the 7 blinks…did this twice just to observe how many times the wash portion ran (3) before it went to blinking. the dishwasher drained by pump before it shut down. I then opened the console assy and checked the wires (p6 to WV and P6 to BK/W and closed the switch) and got no resistance reading. Not sure if I was doing it corrrectly, but I put one probe into the back of the connector with the white/red wire and put the other probe on the switch leg with the WV wire attached (switch open) then check the switch leg with the BK/W wire attached and the switch closed. Meter didn’t read anything. I did check the meter before I started…Should have followed your directions though, I might have saved a little money!! With those results, do you believe the control board is shot or is there something I’m missing (other than a brain!)??..Rick
dammit. I screwed up the below.
"Then check P6 to White/Black with the switch on the door latch closed."
It should be P6 to White/Blue.
Sounds like you may have a bad wire since you have already replaced the parts.
Disconnect P6 from the board and check it from the front side of the plug to White/Violet, sometimes you cannot get a good connection by pushing it in the back side of the plug. If still open (no resistance) you will have to check back through this circuit so leave the one meter lead attached to P6.
P6 to both sides of the thermostat should be 0 ohms.
P6 to one side of the heater should be 0 ohms. The other side of the heater should be around 20 ohms.
P6 to the W-V side of the door switch should be about 20 ohms.
P6 to the W/BL side of the switch with the switch closed should be 20 ohms.
With those results, do you believe the control board is shot
I cannot say if the above circuit check out then I would say yes but you have to check out that the heater circuit is OK before concluding it is the board.
I’m missing (other than a brain!)??
Me too!!!
W/BL is white/blue not white/black.
I have only been messing with electrical for over 40 years and still cannot read a color code.
I must have had my head up my you know what.
Denman,
I think you were right the first time…one switch has a white and violet on one side and white wire on the other. The other switch has a tan on one side and a black and white wire on the other side. (The only "BL" I saw was on the french side for "Blanc")
Nevertheless, I unplugged the connection with the white/red wire and checked the switches again with no reading. To check to the thermostat and element I’m going to have to disconnect everything and pull the dishwasher again. Might not be able to get to that until the weekend…Rick
Denman:
Just wanted to get back to you and thank you for all of your help…however, I threw in the towel and got a new dishwasher…I was getting too frustrated with all of the dis-connecting and re-connecting and my knees were smokin’!!!
I really appreciate you taking the time to walk me through the trouble shooting and although I "gave up", I learned quite a bit in the process…Again…Thanks…Rick
You are welcome
although I "gave up"
I would not consider it giving up, sometimes it is just not worth the hassle and time and it is better to move on with a new unit.
The last appliance I ditched was my washing machine. It just was not worth it to tear the old beast apart.