Boy I just don’t like Thermadors.
I’m working on an RDDS30VRS.
Clock won’t power up the oven or broiler. I did the obvious thing and
ordered a replacement clock and installed it.
New clock installed, doing the same thing, but now giving me an F1
alert. F1 is stated as an ERC (clock) board failure.
I’ve also noticed that the broil element is blown out.
I’m going to be ordering another clock an a broil element.
My brain frazzler is that I’m hearing a "clicking" noise from the back
of the oven as I try to fire up the oven or broiler with the current
clock. I hit the bake or broil button, It won’t allow me to select a
temp. OFF is displayed and I hear the click. OFF goes off, clicks again.
My real blurry wiring diagram shows no relays back there that I can
decipher. Another oven that was a similar model I looked at didn’t
appear to have any relays back there. This oven is a slide-in that was
tiled in front of it, so it will need to be lifted 4 to 6 inches then
slid out on to a platform that I’m going to make to not destroy this
tile work. All to look at the back of the oven. Oh yeah, and there’s
that retracting exhaust fan to remove before pulling the back off the
range.
So, are there or aren’t there relays back there???
Or am I just hearing things???
I’m not familiar with this model but most of Thermador ovens have a thermal cut-off on the back of the oven or on the top (behind the control panel) and usually they are resettable.
Also I believe the "F1" error code means a problem with the touch pad and not with the control board.
According to the Thermador tech sheets the causes of the "F1" error code could be a stuck button or a stuck latch switch and the last one - the ERC.
Check all buttons, especially the "Cancel". You’ve got this error code after you replaced the ERC and very possible one of the buttons got stuck during the installation of the new clock.
There is the High Temperature Cutout switch for the Bake and the Broil heating elements which is located in the right side panel and is resettable.
If this switch is open it’ll interrupt power to both heating elements.
Hopefully you would not have to remove the range to access the HTC switch.
Remove the control panel end caps and the glass from the range.
Remove the two screws from the right front cover, slide the cover forward to unlock it and remove it from the range.
Remove the four screws from the right rear cover and remove the cover.
Press the red reset button in the center of the HTC switch.
Thanks Gene.
When I go back to the customer, I’ll check for that limit switch.
Any thoughts on if there are any relays or switches in the back of the oven???
Well, I made it back to this customer’s house today. I brought help to pull the oven and some lumber to build a platform in order to pull this piece of you know what.
I replaced the new clock I previously installed, and put in a new broil element. It took off and ran perfectly. I didn’t have to pull it. Boy what a relief, this thing was giving me nightmares.
Glen, I was able to see the hi-limit on the right side buried behind that side cover. I would have had to pull that oven to remove the side cover. That is a piss-poor design.