Timer does not advance in auto dry mode

I have a six year old Frigidaire FLSE72GC electric dryer that works fine in the time dry mode however when put in the auto dry mode the timer does not advance and the dryer does not shut off despite the clothe being dry and hot. I would greatly appreciate any suggestions.

Hi Teager

With your machine in either of the two auto modes the control thermostat is closed when the drying begins, which shuts off current to the timer motor and causes it to not run. As the dryer air heats up, the thermostat opens, which allows current to go to the timer motor and for it to run. The control thermostat is not involved in the timer in Timed Mode, so if the control thermostat is not working correctly that is why you could have the timer advancing in Timed Mode and not in Auto mode.

Assuming that your timer does not advance in either auto mode, the likely problem is that your control thermostat is not opening, which causes the dryer to continue drying as the timer motor will not advance the timer.

It is possible that your timer is at fault, but I suggest you replace the control thermostat, here is the part, and see if that does not fix your problem.

http://www.appliancepartspros.com/partsearch/model.aspx?model_id=112046

Good luck and let us know how it turns out.

Thank you for your prompt response. I checked the control thermostat and as you said it is closed when the dryer starts. As the dyer heated up and ran for a while it never did open up, so it would be apparent as you said I need a new one. My only question now is that when I checked both terminals on the thermostat to ground there was perfect continuity. If these interupt a hot to the timer would this continuity indicate a short to ground and a problem beyond the thermostat ?

Here is a wiring diagram. Note it is for a FLSE72GCSC.
Your Model Number seems to be short a couple characters.
http://manuals.frigidaire.com/prodinfo_pdf/Webster/134134500.pdf

A grounded element will also cause your problem.
Unplug the unit
Remove both wires from the heating element.
Check it for resistance, should be approximately 12 ohms.
Then check each side to the case/frame, should be an open (infinite ohms)

Sometimes you can see where the element is touching the case, may even be broken. Sometimes you can see where it has sagged and touched the case once it heated up re: telltale weld mark.
If you set the unit to NO HEAT and you still have heat then odds are high that this is your problem.

If you do not own a meter, I would suggest you purchase a one. You can get a decent digital multimeter for under $20.00. You do not need fancy though it is nice if the leads are a couple feet long.
If it saves ordering one unnecessary part it has paid for itself and you end up owning a useful tool.
Most places will not let you return electrical parts so if you order it, you own it.
A couple things to watch when measuring ohms and continuity

  1. Always remove power from the machine otherwise you could blow your meter.
  2. Always disconnect at least one side of any device you are checking. This eliminates the possibility of measuring an alternate/parallel circuit path.
  3. When checking for closed contacts and continuity use the lowest scale (Usually 200 ohms). Then try higher scales. This scale is 0 to 200 ohms so if the device you are measuring is 300 ohms this scale would show an open circuit which it is not, you are just measuring outside the scale’s dynamic range.

There is a good STICKY at the start of this forum about it’s use.

Hi Teager

Sounds like you diagnosed it perfectly! A new control thermostat should fix you up.

A dryer is grounded to the cabinet. As long as exposed wires do not touch the cabinet you are ok.

Let us know when you get it going and how it turned out.

DENMAN - I ran the dryer in the time mode on air fluff which should be no heat as I recall. The dryer still made heat like it was in high heat mode which would lead me to beleive the heat element could be grounding out as you said. Can this be repaired from the front by taking the drum out from the front and is it safe to stll run in time dry mode or should it be taken out of srvice untill repaired ?

Thank You very much for your help. I will open it all up over the weekend.