Dryer will not heat. Replaced heat element, no help. Ck’d continuity of thermo fuse, cks ok. Ck’d same across dryer cycling thermostat. Continuity ok across two of the larger wire contacts but none across the two smaller wire contacts. When I shake the part I could hear some rattling going on inside! Bad thermostat?
Hi.
The cycling thermostat is most likely good. Did you check the thermal cut off and hi-limit? 279769
Here are the breakdown diagrams and http://www.appliancepartspros.com/bulkhead-parts-for-whirlpool-ler4634bq0.html
Simon.
Here are your parts
http://www.appliancepartspros.com/parts-for-whirlpool-ler4634pq0.html
It is for a 4634. I could not find anything on a 463 so am assuming that is a typo.
Simon I am not sure but I do not think the cycling thermostat should rattle.
So I would recommend it be replaced even if it measures OK.
The small connections on the cycling thermostat may not have shown continuity because you were using to low of a meter scale. They are an internal heater and should measure 5600 to 8400 ohms.
Have you checked the power?
Try flipping the breaker off/on slowly a couple times. Sometimes you can loose half the line without actually tripping the breaker.
Check the voltage at the plug
L1 to L2 should be 240 volts
L1 to Neutral and L2 to Neutral, both should be 120 volts.
If OK
Unplug the unit and check the wires at the terminal strip in the machine to make sure none are loose or burned out
If OK
Check the power at the terminal strip.
Do this with the heater off and on.
Be careful as 240 volts is lethal !!!