Dishwasher has become unresponsive and will not run. It has a worn control panel so am missing some button labels, but could still run it until today. I have just purchased a new panel from apppliancepartspros.com so I look forward to that!
Have shut off the breaker for 10 minutes. Also was able to get it to enter the diagnostic cycle which appears to run properly. However, I can not get the d/w to run a normal cycle, and the buttons seem only to randomly light up.
My assumption is the part I ordered is primarily fixing cosmetic issues and this function problem will continue. Based on what I see (and the service guide behind the kickplate), I should probably do the following:
- Check condition and continuity of the flex cable btw user interface and control board
- Check the functionality of the user interface board
- If both check out, replace the control board
Is this correct? Is there anything to confirm the control board is functioning properly before I replace it (just worried about cost and return issues).
Thanks!
Hi.
Your check list looks correct. If it is not the flex ribbon connector, then most likely it is the user interface board
8531262
8524447
Please, post the results.
Simon.
Already received control panel!!! Am amazed and impressed with the service and the part was very satisfactory.
Unfortunately things have gone downhill. The ribbon cable and user interface board are in great shape, though I still need to test the functionality. Given it’s mostly passive components, I expect it will be fine.
The control board had a burnt circuit on the heater control wire (P4- white/red wire). Visibly scorched trace back to the relay. Several wires also looked scorched and appear to have been so hot as to mold themselves into the insulation in the door.
Am now off to do an ROI on the cost of this vs buying new. Disappointing as I’ve had to put a lot of effort and money into this already (pump, door hinges, rack stuff). Has not held up nearly as well as expected for KitchenAid brand!
A couple of tips for people working on this: removing the control board from the control panel is a delicate manouver if you’re looking to preserve the panel. I used a long flat blade screwdriver for leverage and actually removed an outside corner first before working the interior tabs that look like they are the place to start but turned out to be too stiff. Once you get the one corner out, apply a little leverage and it will FLY out. Second, the tech sheet underneath the kickplate is invaluable in troubleshooting the different problems.
Thanks to APP.com for their valuable support!
Hi.
Do you know about our return policy? You may return or exchange any parts, purchased from APP, so get the control board and return the UIC and the connector.
Simon.
Thanks Simon, but only bought the control panel and am going to keep it. Wasn’t going to buy anything else until I verified condition and functionality.
You are welcome.
Please, keep us posted on the progress.
Simon.