I was wondering if someone can tell me where the damper is for my GE Profile Fridge model PSS26PSTASS. I think it has gone bad and I would like to replace it. are the dampers in the custom cool section? advice would be appreciated as well as how to go by to replace them. thanks you very mcu for your time
[COLOR=#000000][SIZE=3]This model doesn’t have a damper b[/SIZE][SIZE=3]ecause it is a dual evaporator refrigerator. What this means is the refrigerator produces cold air of its own rather that relying on cold air from the freezer through the damper. [/SIZE]
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[SIZE=3]What type of problem are you having?[/SIZE]
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[SIZE=3]Here is a page that may help. [/SIZE]
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http://www.appliance-repair-it.com/GE-ClimateKeeper.html
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[LEFT]it all started out when the ice dispenser unit began to work intermittently, then stopped working all together. what I have now is that my Refrigerator gets too cold but the interface unit (digital control panel on top) says it is 85 degrees while the temperature is set at 46 degrees (as high as it goes before the fridge turns off) I have to do that in order for the fridge not to get even colder (consistently runs 25 to 37 degrees) and freezes food. the freezing side seems to be working properly. also,there is some ice build up in the fresh food section around the lines that come from the freezer section. if you have any ideas what the problem could be I would appreciate the info. I had someone look at it and they didn’t want to touch GE Profile. they said it could be the interface but he wasn’t a 100% sure. anyway, thanks for your time.[/LEFT]
[LEFT]as of today 5/25/11. I replaced both thermistors in the fresh food section as well as the motherboard. I still don’t have power to the interface unit and it also gives me inacurate temp reading on the display. could it be the interface?[/LEFT]
[SIZE=3]I don’t think the user interface control can cause this but you can give it a shot if you like. You can try disconnecting the user interface control, on some models this will cause the main board to go back to a default setting but I am not %100 sure this will happen on this model. If it works normally with the control disconnected then you know the control is bad. [/SIZE]
[SIZE=3]What I think you may have going on is what they call fresh food ice ball problem. If this is the case you will see an ice ball forming in the bottom left-hand corner behind the veggie bins above the custom cool drawer. This happens because of colder than normal temperatures, which is caused by poor sealing around the custom cool air handler and the evaporator compartment. Your model is one of the ones that have had this problem regularly. [SIZE=3]To correct this problem install this repair kit [/SIZE][COLOR=black]WR49X10180 [/COLOR][/SIZE]
[SIZE=3]With that being said it seems odd that the control is saying 85 degrees, to me this would point to the main board or the thermistors but I know you have already replaced them. Just to be sure did you order the main board by model number? The reason I ask is because all over the web (especially on forums) you will find part numbers for GE side by side refrigerator main boards and pictures that look like the board on your model however your board is programmed different than most of the boards you see on forums and such. If you ordered by model number this should’nt be a problem. [/SIZE]
[SIZE=3]One thing to understand about the user interface control is that it doesn’t control temperature it simply displays the temperature and allows you to change the temperature settings. The main board basically tells the user interface the temperature to display (according to the thermistor input). The user interface tells the board what you have set the controls to. Basically the user-interface is, is a messenger. I will not say it cannot be the problem with %100 certainty but I don’t think so. [/SIZE]
I actually replaced the main Board and thermistors in the fresh food section just this morning. I think will let the unit run for some time and see what it all looks like. I do have this "ice ball" that you metioned and will likely order that repair kit. I did order the main board from this web site and before I installed it I checked all the numbers on it and they were all identical compared to the one that was already installed, hopefully it was the right one! another question I have is, there is a fan inside this foam box which sits above the fresh food evaporator (it’ sworking by the way) and to the left of it is something that looks like a little black wheel which is sort of glued inside this stirofoam box. do you know what that little wheel does. is it supposed to run all the time or will it turn on and off on its own?
I still don’t have any power to the ice dispencer unit but that could be another proplem. thanks for your time so far.
[SIZE=3]It is hard for me to picture the part you are talking about but I think it is just an air deflector or duct. [/SIZE]
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[SIZE=3]As far as the dispenser goes, try looking for a loose connection, at the door hinge or the main board and if not you may have a dispenser board problem. [/SIZE]
[SIZE=3]The fan turns on and off sometimes but only when the evaporator isn’t receiving refrigerant and the fresh food section isn’t in a defrost cycle. I would say that this means it run the majority of the time. [/SIZE]
thank you so much for your time! I will kepp you updated.
things are looking much better today. I think I had a bad main board. I do have another question. do you know how much the temps range, once they are set for the fresh food side and the freezer side? I have 2 digital thermometers on each side and was just curious about that. thanks
I don’t know exactly how much the temperature varies but it will vary some because when the main board senses that the temperature has reached desired level it will stop sending refrigerant to the fresh food evaporator. Now it will not send refrigerant back to the fresh food evaporator until all the ice that accumulated during the last cooling cycle has melted off the evaporator. With that being said most of the time you should find the temperature at or around 37 degrees give or take.
I ordered the repair kit [SIZE=3]WR49X10180 that you mentioned in your earlier post to de-ice my fridge behind the bottom drawer in the left corner. I looked at the instructions already online and they seem to be straight forward. the section that might be a little challenging is the wiring in the back. the pictures in the instructions are not very good. do you have any tips for me for this job? is the wiring do able for a do it your selfer? any advise is greatly appreciated. thanks again for your time. [/SIZE]
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[SIZE=3]If you follow the directions step by step you should be ok. The wiring is very minor so if you have any electrical experience you should be ok. [/SIZE]
do you know how long this RTV 102 Adhesive has to cure until I turn the fridge power back on? it doesn’t say in the instructions. I’m talking about the DE ICE BALL KIT. the kit came with 2 tubes of this RTV 102 Adhesive in order to seal up the critical places properly. thanks again for your time.
There is no need to wait.