Have seen this problem posted several times, but …
The upper oven stopped working. Everything works perfect except no heat from top or bottom element. Control panel works perfect, clock is fine, preheat displays, time bake, everything!
I replaced the back thermostat # 4451442 with part # 37 from this site (it is called thrmst-fix, part looks a lot different from original, but I trusted it) … no difference.
Now what? I really dont want to get Whirlpool out here - I am 45 minutes to closest repairman. It is my understanding if the control panel thermal fuse blew, then the control panel would not be working, correct?
It seems odd that both elements would have went bad at same time, but keep in mind that I know nothing about this stuff. I just have a repair manual and follow directions well!
I follow you fairly well. But have some questions before I get in to this. Please forgive my ignorance on this.
You say:
"Plug this wire and the red wire from the relay#2 back in place, living the second red wire from the relay#1 out (insulate it)."
How do I insulate it?
Then you say:
"Turn the Bake on the upper oven on and check for 120VAC between the terminal on the relay#1 where the red wire was connected and ground."
Do I use the multimeter for this? If so, red wire from multimeter goes to relay terminal? and black goes to ground? Not sure where ground is? At this point should I get some help? Not real comfortable doing this with the oven on.
…"Plug this wire and the red wire from the relay#2 back in place, living the second red wire from the relay#1 out (insulate it)."
1. How do I insulate it?
Then you say:
"Turn the Bake on the upper oven on and check for 120VAC between the terminal on the relay#1 where the red wire was connected and ground."
Do I use the multimeter for this? If so, red wire from multimeter goes to relay terminal? and black goes to ground? Not sure where ground is? At this point should I get some help? Not real comfortable doing this with the oven on…
— End quote
Wrap the wire terminal in an insulation tape.
Yes, you have to use the multimeter.
Place the control panel in safe position so it sits stable and no electric parts and/or connections are touching each other and/or any body parts.
Switch the multimeter from "Ohm" to "ACV" 250 range what means the full scale is 250VAC. Touch the relay terminal with any one of the probe (does not matter which one) while the other probe is connected to any metal (ground) part of the oven body and read the meter scale.
I was able to get the oven out and inspected. The heating element in the upper oven was cracked off on one lead, so it appears that it shorted out. I know I need to buy a new element part #7. I have already bought one thermo Fuse, it there any other part that I should check or buy.
The therom fuse looked fine, the fuse behind the control panel was not blown and the low voltage transformer didn’t appear burned out…How do you check the parts other than visually?
Visual test for electrical and/or electronic parts usually does not work. You have to have a multimeter with ability to measure resistance and voltage. the fuses and the transformer have to be checked for continuity.
Gene,
I found that the Thermal Fuse on the board, it’s a inline fuse checks fine with the continuity meter. The Low voltage power supply checks fine as well. I replaced the heating element and the unit still does not power up.
I checked the control power transformer, blue to blue has continuity and red to red does not. Red to blue none. I have the Wireing Harness schematic, BTW it was in the top of the unit.
I inspecting the board there is what appears to be heat discoloring near R188 a big blue resistor. The resistor is loose in the board.
In my opionion the board and possiably the power supply need to be replaced.
Also there the 220 power negative black wire terninates in the unit, it’s discolored there as well.
…I checked the control power transformer, blue to blue has continuity and 1. red to red does not. Red to blue none. I have the Wireing Harness schematic, BTW it was in the top of the unit.
I inspecting the board there is what appears to be heat discoloring near R188 a big blue resistor. 2. The resistor is loose in the board.
In my opionion the board and possiably the power supply need to be replaced.
3. Also there the 220 power negative black wire terninates in the unit, it’s discolored there as well…
This is the transformer which provides low voltage for the control board. The primary winding of this transformer receives 120VAC from the control board (terminals P16-5 & P16-7, red wires) and low voltage is coming into the control board through the terminals P16-2 & P16-3 (blue wires).
Check if the is 120VAC between the black (P24-3) and white (P24-1) wires. Do not forget to remove them from the control board prior to testing.
If there is 120VAC then check for 120VAC between the terminals P16-5 and P16-7.
Gene, sorry about the delay. I injured my back and am just now able to tackle this job. Anyway, before I get back in to this, is there a quick solution, even though it might cost more. For example, could I replace the entire control module instead of just the fuse. If so, please provide a part number that I could order. The wife is ready for her oven back !
If you found the part was damaged then you had to return it right away. You can not rely on such part. Call the customer service to exchange the part under the part warranty.