Whirlpool dryer will not start.

My Whirlpool start button will not start the dryer.

I have removed the lint chute & cleaned it. I checked the continuity on the Thermal Fuse & it is ok.

Should I check the continuity on the Thermostat, Internal-Bias Part number AP3045874 ? It has the four wires attached to it.

Can the Relay behind the start switch be bad? Part number AP2974634, also can I check the continuity on this part? It has three prongs to it.
If it could be this relay how do I remove it?

If you have any other ideas I am open to anything.

Thanks for your help.

C33341

Hello c33341,

Have you checked the door switch to see if it is working properly? Thanks. AP3132865
Cabinet parts replacement parts for WHIRLPOOL LGQ9858PG0 29``GAS DRYER | AppliancePartsPros.com

I read in one of these blogs, If two of these things are ok it would not be the door switch. I read so many of them I cannot tell you the one I read. But with this information my switch should be ok.

You will need to test the door switch and see if it is good. Check and see if the plastic piece is broke off inside the door. Hope this helps.

I will give that a try. How do I get inside the door?

Thanks Jeff

There are two clips under the top of the dryer that will need to be released, along with two screws under the lint filter that will need to be removed, to access the door switch. Thanks.

Thanks for your information, but I have to go to dinner tonight, I will try this when I return later tonight.

Jeff thanks again for your Help

Jeff I held my wife up to go to dinner & checked the door switch, the plastic is intact. I will check the continuity in the door switch when I return.

The continuity of the door switch is good, and so is the cycling thermostat. The only thing I have left is the start relay, and the thermostat on the burner. I will check them next.

I have checked the door switch, and it is good.

I have checked the Thermostat Internal-bias Part no. AP 3045874 and it is good.

I checked the T-Stat, High limit Part AP 3084674 and it has a digital ohm reading of 0.2, and I do not know if this good or bad.

I checked the Thermal cut off Part AP 3176214 and it has a digital reading of 0.3 and I do not know if it is good or bad.

The Thermal Fuse, Thermostat Internal-bias, and the door switch was checked at a local Parts store with an analog meter. These three check good.

I double checked the Thermal Fuse by taping the two wires together to see if the dryer would start, it did not start.

I checked the Relay Part AP 2974634 and the digital reading is 1804. I do not know if this is good or bad.

I am familiar with an Analog Meter, and not with a Digital Meter.

Any help would be appreciated. Thank you.

Boefore you go any further you need to back up a bit and check for the
source voltage at the outlet and at the terminal bock where the cord
connects to the back of the dryer with an AC voltmeter.

I am sorry I sould have said I checked the wall plug when I started. I plugged a blender into the wall & it ran.

I do not have a block at the back of the dryer, the cord has a large black tape, and a bunch of small wires emit from it.

— Begin quote from c33341;376753

I have checked the door switch, and it is good.

I have checked the Thermostat Internal-bias Part no. AP 3045874 and it is good.

I checked the T-Stat, High limit Part AP 3084674 and it has a digital ohm reading of 0.2, and I do not know if this good or bad.

I checked the Thermal cut off Part AP 3176214 and it has a digital reading of 0.3 and I do not know if it is good or bad.

The Thermal Fuse, Thermostat Internal-bias, and the door switch was checked at a local Parts store with an analog meter. These three check good.

I double checked the Thermal Fuse by taping the two wires together to see if the dryer would start, it did not start.

I checked the Relay Part AP 2974634 and the digital reading is 1804. I do not know if this is good or bad.

I am familiar with an Analog Meter, and not with a Digital Meter.

Any help would be appreciated. Thank you.

— End quote

check if the motor has 120v when, door is closed and push to start .
if you read 120v ,it is the overlooad inside the motor ,cant be repaired
if no ,on the motor too, check voltage between l1 and ground,
by the way tell me if you hear any sound when you push to start,(if the timer motor is runing,or the motor humming)

There is zero noise when I push the start button. The timer does work when the dryer is plugged in. The motor does not hum or anything.

I am not able to check the voltage on the motor that is byond my field of expertise.

Could anyone tell me if it is possible to check the Relay on this dryer. It has three prongs on the back. This is on the part AP 2974634. I checked the two prongs that are side by side and got a reading of 1804 with a digital Ohm meter. This is greek to me.

Thank you for your help.

Gentlemen,

Thank you for all your help, I hired a repairman, and he discovered the timer was the problem. He removed the timer, and it rattled. After installing a new timer the dryer works fine.

Whirlpool chose not to include a wiring diagram in, or on the back of the dryer. The repairman was dismayed Whirlpool failed to do this, but with a little luck he was able to repair the dryer.

I would like to thank you for all your help, normally we could have solved the problem. Thanks to you for your help, I have learned a lot, and if the problem is a simple one. I am sure thanks to you I will be able to solve it.

Yours,
c33341