everything I have read about this code does not help. There is no exposed heating element terminal to test and I can’t find a manual for this model to explain where the solenoid connecter is on the CCU. I would like to be able to test before replacing parts at random. please help.
— Begin quote from pandoraspretties;300573
everything I have read about this code does not help. There is no exposed heating element terminal to test and I can’t find a manual for this model to explain where the solenoid connecter is on the CCU. I would like to be able to test before replacing parts at random. please help.
— End quote
Pandora,
Your thermistor is located on the bottom portion, in the center of the outer tub, you’ll need to remove the lower access panel on the front of the machine to access it.
[part]AP3128829[/part]
You’ll need to check the condition of the wires and thermistor connections for corrosion.
The wires from the thermistor run back to the main control board and attach to the TH2 connector.
At room temperature the resistance should be approximately 7.5 ohms resistance, at 100 degrees it should be approximately 6.5 ohms resistance, and at 120 degrees it should be 4.5 ohms resistance.
If all checks OK, you’ll need the main control assembly
[part]AP3881123[/part]
Good Luck,
so are you talking about the resistance on the lower thermistor terminal, which I already tested, or the connection on the CCU? I did find a manual for free online and printed it off to give me a visual on the CCU connectors. If the solenoid is bad you are saying I have to replace the whole CCU? Isn’t there a just a part inside that I replace? everything else works fine. If I use the rinse/spin cycle it runs fine. It is when I try to use the other cycles that the problem arises. It pumps hot water into the tub and sets off the error code, no matter what temp setting I use.
— Begin quote from pandoraspretties;300801
so are you talking about the resistance on the lower thermistor terminal, which I already tested, or the connection on the CCU? I did find a manual for free online and printed it off to give me a visual on the CCU connectors. If the solenoid is bad you are saying I have to replace the whole CCU? Isn’t there a just a part inside that I replace? everything else works fine. If I use the rinse/spin cycle it runs fine. It is when I try to use the other cycles that the problem arises. It pumps hot water into the tub and sets off the error code, no matter what temp setting I use.
— End quote
Pandora,
I personnally check both.
A) Thermistor on the tub, with the harness disconnected.
B) Then re connect the harness and test the resistance on the two wire
connector at the TH2 connector on the CCU.
The resistance should be the same on both tests.
If they are Not, That would indicate a problem in the wire harness, and it would need to be repaired / Replaced.
If they are, that would indicate a loose or bad connection, on/in the CCU, and it will need to be replaced.
These are the only parts used in the temperature sensing circuit (thermistor, harness, and CCU). and the CCU is a "one piece" part, and replaced as a complete unit.
( In short, it’s the computer, or "main brain", that controls your washer).
I don’t understand "solenoid", there is no solenoid involved in the thermistor circuit itself.
The thermistor tells the CCU what the water temperature is (based on resistance) The CCU, activates the hot or cold fill valve solenoid(s) based on the input, to achieve the water temperature selected for the cycle chosen.
I hope this helps you, better understand the system.
where is the ccu and how can I get to it on the duet
— Begin quote from maxepr;302405
where is the ccu and how can I get to it on the duet
— End quote
Max,
You first have to unplug the power cord, remove the top of the machine( 3 screws on the back panel) slide the top back approximately 3/4 to 1 inch, to un clip the locking tabs,and lift off.
The CCU (on your unit) should be mounted on the rear wall of the cabinet frame( small white box, with all the wires / connectors attached to it).
The connection label is embossed in the plastic body, remember you’re looking for a 2 wire connection and it should be labeled TH2 on the control box.
Good Luck,
This thread has been very helpful. I am also showing a F05 code. I took the heating element to an appliance repair shop and he said it tested ok so I bought a sensor. The resistance of the the element (at about 60 degrees) is 15.5 (with sensor plugged in and unplugged). The resistance of the sensor is 19.21. When I do a load with warm water after it fills with warm water the F05 code shows and the resistance of the sensor drops to 6.58. I am praying I don’t have a bad CCU but after seeing the resistance change, I have to think the CCU is not "seeing" the resistance change in the sensor, which has to be bad 
Thanks for any help you can lend.
— Begin quote from sabresfan;678402
This thread has been very helpful. I am also showing a F05 code. I took the heating element to an appliance repair shop and he said it tested ok so I bought a sensor. The resistance of the the element (at about 60 degrees) is 15.5 (with sensor plugged in and unplugged). The resistance of the sensor is 19.21. When I do a load with warm water after it fills with warm water the F05 code shows and the resistance of the sensor drops to 6.58. I am praying I don’t have a bad CCU but after seeing the resistance change, I have to think the CCU is not "seeing" the resistance change in the sensor, which has to be bad
Thanks for any help you can lend.
— End quote
Sabrefan,
Re check the wiring connections at the thermistor, and the CCU. Make sure you have a good tight connection at both connections, make sure there’s no corrosion, debris,etc on the wires (especially at the thermistor), before you replace the CCU.
Thanks and Good Luck
I did that. the inside is remarkably clean considering its gotta be 10 years old. All connections seem good and tight, no corrosion, at least at the element, sensor and CCU. Is there anything else at all I can test with a multimeter? is there a "relay" hidden in the somewhere? Did the original diagostics I posted all look normal?
I appreciate the help and quick response!
— Begin quote from sabresfan;679056
I did that. the inside is remarkably clean considering its gotta be 10 years old. All connections seem good and tight, no corrosion, at least at the element, sensor and CCU. Is there anything else at all I can test with a multimeter? is there a "relay" hidden in the somewhere? Did the original diagostics I posted all look normal?
I appreciate the help and quick response!
— End quote
Sabrefan,
No, theres no "hidden" relay, in the circuit. This is a resistance circuit, as the resistance changes, The circuit in the CCU determines which fill valve to activate and deactivate. As long as your water temperature at the faucet are in range(extremely hot or cold water can create an issue) , the hoses aren’t crossed, and you have plenty of water pressure. based on your post everything is OK, and you’re going to need the CCU.
Is it safe to assume the sensor sends a reading to the CCU? If so, can I unplug the TH2 plug from the ccu and take a reading from the unplugged (still plugged in at the sensor) wires to see if the data is "making it to" the ccu from the sensor?
Does that make sense?
— Begin quote from sabresfan;679134
Is it safe to assume the sensor sends a reading to the CCU? If so, can I unplug the TH2 plug from the ccu and take a reading from the unplugged (still plugged in at the sensor) wires to see if the data is "making it to" the ccu from the sensor?
Does that make sense?
— End quote
Sabrefan, Very good, you’re on top of it. I thought I had mentioned that in my post, but I guess I forgot it.
You’ll need some "pin point" meter probes or a couple of large paper clips to do the test at the TH2 connector, but you’ll do fine.
Makes sense. I am going to assume the "contacts" are recessed too far to standard MM probes? So just so I have it straight…I should disconnect the TH2 connection from the CCU. fashion some paperclips to stick in there and test using the MM. I should see the same reading there as I should at the sensor itself. If not, the reading is getting lost somewhere between the sensor and the CCU. Does that sound right?
Thanks for all the help!
— Begin quote from sabresfan;679160
Makes sense. I am going to assume the "contacts" are recessed too far to standard MM probes? So just so I have it straight…I should disconnect the TH2 connection from the CCU. fashion some paperclips to stick in there and test using the MM. I should see the same reading there as I should at the sensor itself. If not, the reading is getting lost somewhere between the sensor and the CCU. Does that sound right?
Thanks for all the help!
— End quote
Sabrefan,
You have it exactly right, Great job.
Did you ever resolve this? I’m got another post about the same thing - replaced the sensor, heater relay and now the CCU and still getting an F05. (Heater element tests fine at 15ohms.) I’m at a loss!
— Begin quote from twarnock;733611
Did you ever resolve this? I’m got another post about the same thing - replaced the sensor, heater relay and now the CCU and still getting an F05. (Heater element tests fine at 15ohms.) I’m at a loss!
— End quote
Twarnock,
You’ll need to perform the resistance checks the the thermistor at the CCU, using paper clips and a multi meter, like the last APP post to Sabresfan. You’ve coverred everything except the harness and the plug connector pins in the connector.
Good Luck and Thanks
Thanks. I just posted an update/resolution to my original post in this forum. It turns out it was the wiring harness between the temp sensor and the CCU - one of the black wires was open. Ran a replacement wire and all is well! Thanks!
— Begin quote from twarnock;733680
Thanks. I just posted an update/resolution to my original post in this forum. It turns out it was the wiring harness between the temp sensor and the CCU - one of the black wires was open. Ran a replacement wire and all is well! Thanks!
— End quote
Twarnock,
Great, We’re glad for you. So you’re up and running and all is good.
Thanks for the update, we appreciate it.
Good Luck and Thanks
I am having same problem and curious how you found that it was the wire. I don’t know how to test that to find out if it is my problem. I checked the water temp sensor and found that it reads about 9ohms at room temp, but don’t know how to find out if it is a wire, heater, relay or what??? I am a novice. If you can direct me, please help. thanks!
Having same problem, f05 code after 2-3 minutes and only hot water regardless of setting. Can you tell me how to perform resistance checks on wire harness at ccu, heater element and heat relay? I have tested water temp sensor and it tests fine… but I am a novice and do not know how to check the other things. Thanks