[SIZE=4]We just replaced the door lock about 3 weeks ago. It was not locking at that time. It did appear that a plastic piece inside the lock was broken. Now it will not unlock the door… It is holding my work clothes wet and hostage… and throwing either a F11 code or a FDL code or both. Help… I am so sick of this washer, but can’t justify replacing it or the repair bill to have someone come out.
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If you reach up under the front door with the lower panel off you should find a tab that will allow you to manually unlock the door. Pull it gently.
I sympathize with you on these models, and about the best suggestion I can make is to (1) get the supplier to replace the part you installed, (2) check the wiring between the door lock assembly and the control panel and if that does not work, (3) set it out by the curb and hope someone takes it.
Yes I know a new or good used one is costly, but these Duets are very difficult machines and the sooner you replace it the better.
hi! i had the same f11 code on my whirlpool duet and i fixed the problem by taking a q-tip and a little rubbing alcohol to the connection point where the door latch closes into the washer. (I cleaned both the washer side…you have to extend the q-tip inside until it hits the plastic part and the actual latch) Mine was full of dark muck! I first used a damp q-tip and moistened the area really well then i used several dry ones and just kept wiping until the area was clean. I used rubbing alcohol and not water because it evaporates quick. Like magic the washer is back to working great! Hope this helps!
Thanks John, great tips like yours are always welcome!
— Begin quote from sidfink43;291410
Thanks John, great tips like yours are always welcome!
— End quote
Hey, no problem, did it fix the issue? My wife’s is still working great - no other problems. She is a happy woman.
Soon after hurricane Irene our refrigerator quit working. The area where I would touch on the display to change the settings blinks every second and as it blinks the dispenser door make the sound as if the door was closing every second also.
The display it self does not come on as well as the interior fridge light does not come on. I should also mention that I do not hear the compressor making any noise as if it were trying to start.
No ideas??? I really have no idea where to start to troubleshooting. I was hoping to get alot more years out of this fridge.
Well here I go again. I still own this refrigerator but have a new one. We had someone look at the refrigerator but it suddenly started working again when I plugged it back in. There was nothing he could do since it started working. He just mentioned something about the problem possibly being the circuit board. About a week later it stopped working again so my wife and I decided just to get a new one through our insurance.
To this day every time that I plug it in it works fine. I’d like to sell it for $400-$600 but I don’t want to sell it to anybody until I can figure out what the problem is.
Like I had originally posted the fridge would not start when I plugged it in. The ice dispenser door would just click like it was opening and closing and the lighted touch screen buttons would blink. The interior lights would not work and the compressor would not start.
I could simply bring it out to the curb and it would be gone in seconds. Somebody who knows what their doing could put as little as $100 into it and have a perfectly good fridge for 10+ years.
I’d rather put that $100 into it and make a little profit on it myself. :rolleyes:
So if anybody has any input on what may be wrong or how I can diagnose it please let me know. Thanks.
Nothing? I was hoping someone had an answer.
been following the other posts on this subject with related machines but can’t find where to go next. my led on the circuit board is blinking green about 5-6 times every 6 seconds. I’ve tested the fuse and it’s good. when i checked continuity across the red-red/white posts on the motor itself there was no continuity. do i have a bad motor?
The blinking LED means you have power to the washer (fuse is good). With washer unplugged, lid closed, check continuity between hot (small blade) of the power cord and the orange wire (may be gray on some models) of the inverter leftmost connector. This checks the lid switch. Place washer in normal cycle, spin position, timer on, washer unplugged. Check continuity between hot of power cord and red wire of rightmost connector as well as to the blue wire of same connector. This checks timer contacts and wiring. If all good, motor/inverter is likey bad. Place timer in off position, plug washer back in, open/close lid 6 times within 12 seconds to reset inverter. Try spin again. If you get the same fault code, motor/inverter bad.
Eric
The symptoms are pretty specific for the F11 code on the Whirlpool Duet front loaders and clones (Kenmore Elite and KitchenAid):
If the washer starts to fill but the drum NEVER moves, your MCU is bad
If the washer runs through most of a cycle and then gives the F11 before (or during) a rinse or spin cycle, then you have the CCU relay problem.
If you are interested in having me repair your CCU for you, I offer that service on "e bay" (website coming soon). My username there is "jhagner"
Thanks