Whirlpool duet stopped working suddenly with no power going to display. The plug was live and we replaced the user interface yesterday. After replacing the use interface, now we see three dashes, but get no response from the touch pads etc on the user interface. When I plug in, there are no clicking noises from the CCU. I have sprayed non-residue contact cleaner on the CCU connections and still only three dashes with no response. Is it a bad CCU? Any other potential sources of this problem?
Thank you!
— Begin quote from psmountain;278426
Whirlpool duet stopped working suddenly with no power going to display. The plug was live and we replaced the user interface yesterday. After replacing the use interface, now we see three dashes, but get no response from the touch pads etc on the user interface. When I plug in, there are no clicking noises from the CCU. I have sprayed non-residue contact cleaner on the CCU connections and still only three dashes with no response. Is it a bad CCU? Any other potential sources of this problem?
Thank you!
— End quote
PS,
At this point, I would have to think you do have a bad CCU.
Or a voltage problem to the CCU.
As soon as you supply 120 VAC to the CCU , the relay should click closed,
You should check for 120 VAC at the CCU on connector IF2, across the pins in the connector.
If you have the voltage but no click on the board relay, replace the CCU.
[part]AP3881126[/part]
Good Luck,
Ok. Thanks for the tip. I replaced the CCU and the first time I plugged it in I got the ‘control locked’ light on but nothing on the display. I couldn’t get the control locked light to come off no matter what I tried. So I unplugged it and fiddled with all the connections to make sure they were solid and plugged in correctly. When I plugged it into power subsequently, the display has three dashes and is non-responsive again. So I’ve replaced the user interface and the CCU. What could it be?
If you have a meter and know how to use it, you can get the service manual for this at web site %url%, just locate and download it. It will have the ccu connections to check for missing voltages.
— Begin quote from psmountain;278998
Ok. Thanks for the tip. I replaced the CCU and the first time I plugged it in I got the ‘control locked’ light on but nothing on the display. I couldn’t get the control locked light to come off no matter what I tried. So I unplugged it and fiddled with all the connections to make sure they were solid and plugged in correctly. When I plugged it into power subsequently, the display has three dashes and is non-responsive again. So I’ve replaced the user interface and the CCU. What could it be?
— End quote
PS,
Here is the Technical Data sheet for your machine.
http://www.servicematters.com/docs/wiring/Tech%20Sheet%20-%208182677.pdf
You’ll have all the information and test points, and tests, you need, and will have this figured out in no time.
— Begin quote from Joe / APP Team;279179
PS,
Here is the Technical Data sheet for your machine.
http://www.servicematters.com/docs/wiring/Tech%20Sheet%20-%208182677.pdf
You’ll have all the information and test points, and tests, you need, and will have this figured out in no time.
— End quote
All the switches to the CCU test ok except the dispenser switch (which does not read 0 Ohms as it should). The door lock solenoid (3 to 1) measures 120 Ohms instead of the suggested 60. Could either of these be a problem? Thank you.
— Begin quote from psmountain;279265
All the switches to the CCU test ok except the dispenser switch (which does not read 0 Ohms as it should). The door lock solenoid (3 to 1) measures 120 Ohms instead of the suggested 60. Could either of these be a problem? Thank you.
— End quote
PS,
Yes, they could especially the door lock solenoid, it could keep the unit from operating, the CCU has to see the door close and lock, within seconds of starting the machine.
[part]AP3837611[/part]
The dispenser switch is less important, but will give you a failure code, after the cycle starts.
So, in essence you’ll need both parts.
[part]AP3128788[/part]
I think you’ve got it licked,
Good Luck,
I have replaced the door lock latch and still there is no response on the display after plugging it in. Any other ideas?
— Begin quote from Joe / APP Team;281944
PS,
Do you hear the CCU relay click, when you plug in the power cord to the outlet ?
Is there any display at all ?
What is the voltage at the IF2 connector on the CCU with power to the unit ?
Refer to pg. 10 of the tech data sheet I sent you, and try to run the Diagnostic Test at the top of the page.
Let us know what happens.
— End quote
The new CCU is not clicking when it is plugged in, but there is 120v at the IF2 connector that goes to the CCU. I should have checked for the clicking before. What are the chances that the new CCU would be bad?
There is no display at all. I cannot get the diagnostic test to run because there is no response.
Thanks for the help.
— Begin quote from psmountain;284758
Again, thanks for the help. Just to make sure that I am doing it correctly: do I want to test the pins on the CCU (as opposed to the pins on the wires that connect to the CCU)? This is what I have assumed - even though I have tested both. I do not get 120 VAC at either test spot (DL3 or DLS5 above) nor at the L1 pins to ground chassis. I do have 120 VAC at the IF2 connection (tested at the wires going to the CCU in this case). Is it sufficient to have only the IF2 plugged in to the CCU when I tested the DL3 and DLS5 pins on the CCU for 120 VAC?
— End quote
PS,
Looks and sounds like you’ve got a "BAD CCU" out of the box.
Sounds like you did do the voltage checks at the CCU connector pins correctly.
Since you had no voltage at any of the checks you made,
You’d have to have a bad CCU. The internal switches on your L1 and Neutral lines in the board are not closing and supplying the voltage to the board components.