Whirlpool Model RDB245PDQ14 that had intermittent F6 E2 error. Just changed the control board and display reads F5 E1 If i cycle the power I occasionally get F3 E1. Put old control board in and no error codes. Any thoughts?
Thanks, not much hair left to pull out 
— Begin quote from Tool1967;242509
Whirlpool Model RDB245PDQ14 that had intermittent F6 E2 error. Just changed the control board and display reads F5 E1 If i cycle the power I occasionally get F3 E1. Put old control board in and no error codes. Any thoughts?
Thanks, not much hair left to pull out
— End quote
Did this occur after a self clean cycle or an extensive bake or broil cycle ?
I would suspect a loose connection in the latch and sensor harness that is routed from the control board to the self clean latch assembly switches and the oven temperature sensor(this is one harness that separates and connects to the components).
your codes indicate:
F3-E1 = temperature sensor resistance out of range
F5-E1 = door latch switch position open
F6-E2 = control not recieving door switch return pulse
since your codes have reset after you re installed your old control, this would lead me to believe you have a loose connection in your harness. You may want to trace those wires to the components and insure you have a good, tight connection(s) at the control board and switches at the latch and sensor.
Thank you for your response. I have never used the self clean feature. The oven died in the middle of a bake session but came back on with F6 E2 which allowed us to clear and finish cooking. I changed the control board after that cooking session.
I checked and cleaned the latch and sensor wires last night. Put a meter on the latch motor per tech sheet and checked out ok. The old control board hasn’t shown any error codes since putting it back - though suspect it to die again at worst time. Any chance the new board is bad? very strange.
— Begin quote from Tool1967;242546
Thank you for your response. I have never used the self clean feature. The oven died in the middle of a bake session but came back on with F6 E2 which allowed us to clear and finish cooking. I changed the control board after that cooking session.
I checked and cleaned the latch and sensor wires last night. Put a meter on the latch motor per tech sheet and checked out ok. The old control board hasn’t shown any error codes since putting it back - though suspect it to die again at worst time. Any chance the new board is bad? very strange.
— End quote
Not much of a chance you had a bad new control(but possible). I would have suspected the wiring from the start, based on the codes and your problem description.
Dishes on the top rack in particular are not cleaning. Also some of the utensils. The soap door opens but the soap doesn’t all come out and when the cycle completes, soap is hardened in the dispenser. We have taken all of the easily accessible parts out and examined for clogs etc. All appear to be OK. It seems that the water is not being pumped, or pushed up through the spray arms with enough force to clean. The water is there and it is hot but not cleaning. In your short trouble shooting section, I saw something in the drain section about there being impellers in the pump. This sounds like what the problem could be. If this is the problem, do you have to replace the pump? And would you have to replace anything else? In our parts list it doesn’t show a pump per se, but a sump - is this the same or maybe a typo? I would think that the sump would be to drain. It does this OK. Help please and thanks.
— Begin quote from Sandra J A;456580
Dishes on the top rack in particular are not cleaning. Also some of the utensils. The soap door opens but the soap doesn’t all come out and when the cycle completes, soap is hardened in the dispenser. We have taken all of the easily accessible parts out and examined for clogs etc. All appear to be OK. It seems that the water is not being pumped, or pushed up through the spray arms with enough force to clean. The water is there and it is hot but not cleaning. In your short trouble shooting section, I saw something in the drain section about there being impellers in the pump. This sounds like what the problem could be. If this is the problem, do you have to replace the pump? And would you have to replace anything else? In our parts list it doesn’t show a pump per se, but a sump - is this the same or maybe a typo? I would think that the sump would be to drain. It does this OK. Help please and thanks.
— End quote
Sandra,
Your poor washability problem, could also be due to an improper fill level/slow fill. Usually if there is a bad impeller, there is some sort of noise that accompanies the operation of the motor.
We’d really like to assist you more, but, we need a complete model number (usually at least 10 digits) from the production plate on the dishwasher.
Thanks,
there is only the original model number 17512201 there is also a serial number FP 1311199. Thanks.
— Begin quote from Sandra J A;456705
there is only the original model number 17512201 there is also a serial number FP 1311199. Thanks.
— End quote
Sandra,
The closest Kenmore dishwasher model number I can get is,
66517512201 (11 digits)
The number you’re supplying 17512201 is for a Kenmore Garbage disposal.
I’m going to use it as a reference model number.
Let’s do the easiest check first.
Start the dishwasher on a regular wash cycle, let it fill and wash for 3 to 5 minutes. Unlatch the door and let set for a few seconds, open the door and observe the water level in the bottom of the tub. If the machine filled properly, the water level will be in contact with the bottom of the heater element(at least). Low water level, does effect the water flow and pressure produced by the wash pump, and can cause the unit to present with poor washability, especially in the upper rack/spray arm area of a dishwasher.
No wonder the dishes on the top rack are not getting clean - a garbage disposal you say:D . Will try the fill thing, got nothing to lose. Will let you know.
— Begin quote from Sandra J A;457087
No wonder the dishes on the top rack are not getting clean - a garbage disposal you say:D . Will try the fill thing, got nothing to lose. Will let you know.
— End quote
Sandra,
Good Deal,
Will keep and eye out for your next post,
I had a look and there seemed to be sufficient water, but there was room for the float thing to still move, so I saved up enough dishes to give it a try. Added the extra water and was not successful. None of the dishes top or bottom were clean. Some looked ok at first glance, but there weren’t really all that soiled to start with. The soap dispenser opened, but mostof the soap was still in it and just stuck there. Where do we go from here? My hubby is probably going to do something drastic to it tomorrow, so maybe there is some logical way to go about checking further. Advice is appreciated.
— Begin quote from Sandra J A;460419
I had a look and there seemed to be sufficient water, but there was room for the float thing to still move, so I saved up enough dishes to give it a try. Added the extra water and was not successful. None of the dishes top or bottom were clean. Some looked ok at first glance, but there weren’t really all that soiled to start with. The soap dispenser opened, but mostof the soap was still in it and just stuck there. Where do we go from here? My hubby is probably going to do something drastic to it tomorrow, so maybe there is some logical way to go about checking further. Advice is appreciated.
— End quote
Sandra,
Before he tears into anything, check and make sure the water temperature in the bottom of the tub is at least 120 dgrs, when the dishwasher fills up the first time/at the start of the cycle, a low water temperature or older detergent will not wash out of the detergent cup or will clump in the cup.
If the water temperature is correct, He’ll need to remove the wash pump assembly, dismantle it and check for a damaged impeller, or clogged sump, etc.
What does an impeller look like, and how will we know if it damaged? In the parts section of our manual, it doesn’t show or mention an impeller. Where exactly will we find it?
I am fairly certain that the water temperature is not the problem, but will check non the less.
— Begin quote from Sandra J A;460699
What does an impeller look like, and how will we know if it damaged? In the parts section of our manual, it doesn’t show or mention an impeller. Where exactly will we find it?
I am fairly certain that the water temperature is not the problem, but will check non the less.
— End quote
Sandra,
I guess you’re going to need to remove, and check the wash pump assembly for possible problems,
Here are some basic instructions for your style dishwasher :
[FONT=Arial][SIZE=4][FONT=Arial][SIZE=4][LEFT]Removing the Inner Feed Tube and
Lower Spray Arm[/LEFT]
[/SIZE][/FONT][/SIZE][/FONT][SIZE=3][FONT=Arial][SIZE=3][LEFT]The Inner Feed Tube is held in place by two (2) screws. [/SIZE][/SIZE][/FONT][SIZE=3][FONT=Arial][SIZE=3]One is located on the inner top of the dishwasher tub. The second is located on the back of the dishwasher tub.[/SIZE][/SIZE][/FONT][FONT=Arial][SIZE=3][FONT=Arial][SIZE=3][/LEFT]
[/SIZE][/FONT][/SIZE][/FONT][FONT=Arial][SIZE=3][FONT=Arial][SIZE=3][LEFT]1. Remove the two (2) dishracks from the dishwasher tub.
2. Remove the two (2) screws securing the Inner Feed Tube to the inside of the dishwasher tub.[/LEFT]
[SIZE=3][FONT=Arial][SIZE=3]3. Rotate the rear feed cap[/SIZE][/SIZE][/FONT][SIZE=3][FONT=Arial][SIZE=3] [/SIZE][/SIZE][/FONT][SIZE=3][FONT=Arial][SIZE=3]¼ turn clockwise.[/SIZE][/SIZE][/FONT]
[FONT=Arial][SIZE=3][FONT=Arial][SIZE=3][FONT=Arial][SIZE=3][FONT=Arial][SIZE=3][LEFT]4. The entire inner water tube assembly and the lower spray arm assembly can now be removed from the dishwasher tub.[/LEFT]
[FONT=Arial][SIZE=4][FONT=Arial][SIZE=4][LEFT]Removing the Pump Assembly[/LEFT]
[/SIZE][/FONT][/SIZE][/FONT][FONT=Arial][SIZE=3][FONT=Arial][SIZE=3][LEFT]The entire pump assembly can be removed from inside the dishwasher tub.
- Remove the access and toe panels from underneath the dishwasher door by removing the two (2) screws securing it to the dishwasher frame. [/SIZE][/FONT][/SIZE][/FONT][FONT=Arial][SIZE=3][FONT=Arial][SIZE=3][/LEFT]
[/SIZE][/FONT][/SIZE][/FONT][FONT=Arial][SIZE=3][FONT=Arial][SIZE=3][LEFT]2. Disconnect the wiring harness connectors from the drive motor and pump motor terminals, the soil sensor and the thermistor. - Disconnect the drain hose from the drain hose connector on the pump outlet.
- Remove the pump motor.
- Remove the three (3) sump tabs that secure the sump assembly to the dishwasher tub. [FONT=Arial][SIZE=3][FONT=Arial][SIZE=3]
- From inside the tub, lift the front of the sump up approximately ½ inch.[/LEFT]
Push the assembly back and then lift it out.
[/SIZE][/FONT][/SIZE][/FONT][/SIZE][/FONT][/SIZE][/FONT][SIZE=3][FONT=Arial][SIZE=3][/SIZE][/SIZE][/FONT][/SIZE][/FONT][/SIZE][/FONT][/SIZE][/FONT][/SIZE][/FONT][/SIZE][/FONT][/SIZE][/FONT][FONT=Arial][SIZE=4][FONT=Arial][SIZE=4][LEFT]Removing the Wash Motor[/LEFT]
[/SIZE][/FONT][/SIZE][/FONT][SIZE=3][FONT=Arial][SIZE=3][LEFT]1. Remove the bolt securing the wash motor and drip shield in place on the pump assembly.[/SIZE][/SIZE][/FONT][FONT=Arial][SIZE=3][FONT=Arial][SIZE=3][/LEFT]
[/SIZE][/FONT][/SIZE][/FONT][FONT=Arial][SIZE=3][FONT=Arial][SIZE=3][LEFT]2. Once the bolt and drip shield are removed, turn the wash motor until it stops (approximately ¼ turn). - Pull the motor straight back from the sump assembly. Some effort may be necessary to dislodge the motor. The volute will remain
attached to the motor. [/LEFT]
[/SIZE][/FONT][/SIZE][/FONT][SIZE=3][FONT=Arial][SIZE=3][LEFT]NOTE: [/SIZE][/SIZE][/FONT][FONT=Arial][SIZE=3][FONT=Arial][SIZE=3]When reinstalling the wash motor and
volute, do not pinch the volute seal between the
volute and sump. Use a small amount of rinse[/LEFT]
aid on the volute seal to help installation.
[FONT=Arial][SIZE=4][FONT=Arial][SIZE=4][LEFT]Removing the Pump Motor[/LEFT]
[/SIZE][/FONT][/SIZE][/FONT][FONT=Arial][SIZE=3][FONT=Arial][SIZE=3][LEFT]1. With one hand, press back on the plastic tab that holds the pump motor from rotating.[/LEFT]
[/SIZE][/FONT][/SIZE][/FONT][LEFT][FONT=Arial][SIZE=3][FONT=Arial][SIZE=3]2. With the other hand, rotate the pump motor counterclockwise approximately ¼ turn. The pump motor will now be free of[/LEFT]
the pump assembly.
[FONT=Arial][SIZE=4][FONT=Arial][SIZE=4][LEFT]Accessing Components of the Sump Assembly[/LEFT]
[/SIZE][/FONT][/SIZE][/FONT][FONT=Arial][SIZE=3][FONT=Arial][SIZE=3][LEFT]Components inside the sump can be accessed without removing the sump from the dishwasher tub. - Remove the four (4) screws securing the soil accumulator from the sump base. [/SIZE][/FONT][/SIZE][/FONT][FONT=Arial][SIZE=3][FONT=Arial][SIZE=3][/LEFT]
[/SIZE][/FONT][/SIZE][/FONT][FONT=Arial][SIZE=3][FONT=Arial][SIZE=3]2. The soil accumulator will now lift free of the sump base.
[SIZE=3][FONT=Arial][SIZE=3][LEFT]3. Remove the screw securing the foreign objects protector to the sump base and remove the protector.[/SIZE][/SIZE][/FONT][FONT=Arial][SIZE=3][FONT=Arial][SIZE=3][/LEFT]
[/SIZE][/FONT][/SIZE][/FONT][SIZE=3][FONT=Arial][SIZE=3][LEFT]4. Remove the screw securing the inlet protector to the pump base and lift the inlet protector out. [/SIZE][/SIZE][/FONT][FONT=Arial][SIZE=3][FONT=Arial][SIZE=3][/LEFT]
[/SIZE][/FONT][/SIZE][/FONT][FONT=Arial][SIZE=3][FONT=Arial][SIZE=3][LEFT]5. Remove the chopper assembly from the impeller shaft and lift it from the sump base.[/LEFT]
[SIZE=3][FONT=Arial][SIZE=3][LEFT]6. The check valve, located between the wash motor and the drain can be removed with a pair of needle nose pliers. [/SIZE][/SIZE][/FONT][FONT=Arial][SIZE=3][FONT=Arial][SIZE=3][/LEFT]
[/SIZE][/FONT][/SIZE][/FONT][SIZE=3][FONT=Arial][SIZE=3][LEFT]NOTE: [/SIZE][/SIZE][/FONT][FONT=Arial][SIZE=3][FONT=Arial][SIZE=3]When replacing the check valve,
simply drop it in place. The inlet protector
will seat the flapper valve properly when it is[/LEFT]
reinstalled[FONT=Arial][SIZE=3][FONT=Arial][SIZE=3]
[LEFT]7. With the wash motor removed, the separation screen can be removed from the sump base.[/LEFT]
[SIZE=3][FONT=Arial][SIZE=3][LEFT]8. The thermistor can be removed from the sump by turning it ¼ turn counterclockwise and pulling it out. [/SIZE][/SIZE][/FONT][FONT=Arial][SIZE=3][FONT=Arial][SIZE=3]The thermistor can
be removed without removing the sump assembly from the tub.
Access to the thermistor can be gained by removing the access and toe panels while the unit is in its installed position.[/LEFT]
[FONT=Arial][SIZE=4][FONT=Arial][SIZE=4][LEFT]Removing the Impeller from the Wash Motor[/LEFT]
[/SIZE][/FONT][/SIZE][/FONT][FONT=Arial][SIZE=3][FONT=Arial][SIZE=3][LEFT]The impeller is attached to the wash motor and can be removed once the wash motor is removed from the pump base. - Place the end of a flat-bladed screwdriver into the back of the wash motor to hold the armature of the motor from turing while unscrewing
the impeller clockwise.[/SIZE][/FONT][/SIZE][/FONT][FONT=Arial][SIZE=3][FONT=Arial][SIZE=3][/LEFT]
[/SIZE][/FONT][/SIZE][/FONT][FONT=Arial][SIZE=3][FONT=Arial][SIZE=3][LEFT]Take care not to scratch or nick the motor windings.[/LEFT]
[FONT=Arial][SIZE=3][FONT=Arial][SIZE=3][LEFT]To Remove the Volute[/LEFT]
[/SIZE][/FONT][/SIZE][/FONT][FONT=Arial][SIZE=3][FONT=Arial][SIZE=3][LEFT]1. Align the arrow on the volute and the locator triangle on the wash motor frame.[/LEFT] - Lift the volute from the wash motor.
Good Luck,
[/SIZE][/FONT][/SIZE][/FONT]
[/SIZE][/FONT][/SIZE][/FONT][/SIZE][/FONT][/SIZE][/FONT][/SIZE][/FONT][/SIZE][/FONT]
[/SIZE][/FONT][/SIZE][/FONT][/SIZE][/FONT][/SIZE][/FONT][/SIZE][/FONT][/SIZE][/FONT][SIZE=3][FONT=Arial][SIZE=3][/SIZE][/SIZE][/FONT][/SIZE][/FONT][/SIZE][/FONT][/SIZE][/FONT][/SIZE][/FONT]
Too Late!:eek: :o
— Begin quote from Sandra J A;468709
Too Late!:eek: :o
— End quote
Sorry,
We tried.
Good Luck,