There are too much ice built up in the Freezer side and stuff like icecream would turn to solid. Eventhough the refrig side is still cold, I feel as if it’s not cold enough ( I need to bring in portable thermometer to verify this ). No matter what temp setting I choose, it don’t seems to make a difference.
If I let the ice melt manually in Freezer side, then it works for a day or two and the ice starts to built up again.
With my very limited knowledge of refrig systems, and with lots of reading on this site, I have come to narrow down to three things.
Defrost timer
Thermostat
Heater
Now, I don’t know which one is bad and how to test it. Does anyone have good pointer? I’m also thinking it’s more of like a bad defrost timer. Any input would be highly appreciated.
Here is the tech sheet, see the attachment.
It tells you how to force a defrost cycle.
First remove the evaporator cover in the freezer so you can see the coils.
Do not let them de-ice.
If they are heavily iced/frosted over you have a defrost problem.
If yes.
Manually force a defrost cycle, see the tech sheet till the fans and compressor turn off.
You do not have a mechanical timer you have an Adaptive Defrost Control board (Item 6 in Section 11)
Now check the defrost heater to see if it is on.
Be careful you do not want to burn your fingers.
If the heater is on then the timer needs replacing.
If not on.
Unplug the unit.
Remove the wire for one side of the heating element (Item 33 in Section 9) from the wiring and measure it for continuity, usually around 20 ohms or so.
If the heater is OK
Remove one wire to the defrost thermostat (Item 35 in Section 9) and measure it, should be 0 ohms when frozen. Note that it opens just above freezing so must be frozen to check it. Also inspect it, if it is bulged at all replace it even if it measures OK.
If both the above are OK then odds are the defrost board is toast.
Best way to test this is a live test to see if you have 120 volts across the heater/defrost thermostat combo.
If you do not own a meter, I would suggest you purchase a one. You can get a decent digital multimeter for under $20.00. You do not need fancy though it is nice if the leads are a couple feet long.
If it saves ordering one unnecessary part it has paid for itself and you end up owning a useful tool.
Most places will not let you return electrical parts so if you order it, you own it.
A couple things to watch when measuring ohms and continuity
Always remove power from the machine otherwise you could blow your meter.
Always disconnect at least one side of any device you are checking. This eliminates the possibility of measuring an alternate/parallel circuit path.
When checking for closed contacts and continuity use the lowest scale (Usually 200 ohms). Then try higher scales. This scale is 0 to 200 ohms so if the device you are measuring is 300 ohms this scale would show an open circuit which it is not, you are just measuring outside the scale’s dynamic range.
There is a good STICKY at the start of this forum about it’s use.