So, I’m working on a friend’s washer; I want to make sure that we keep expenses to as low as possible…but I’m not really sure what to replace!
Her washer will fill and agitate just fine - but when it comes to the spin cycle - nothing. It WILL spin when empty, but toss in just one or two things and she just sits there. Drains out fine, but won’t spin with any weight in it.
From what we’ve read, it’s most likely the clutch. But what’s to say that it’s not the clutch band? The motor coupling? The drive block or the basket drive? I want to get it right for as little money as possible, as she doesn’t have much (that’s why she called me instead of a real repairman! Haha!).
Is there a way to discern what’s really functional/working before we just start tossing money at the problem?
Where do we begin to troubleshoot the REAL problem? And for that matter, it may be more than one component that has failed…and that’s fine - just don’t want to go "shotgun style" at it all, as it could add up pretty quickly, I’m afraid.
Where’s the best place to start?
Hi.
To pin point the problem you need to check all the parts you had listed in your post.
The drive block 389140
Use the video clip for the instructions.
Next check the coupling - if it’s not broken (I think it’s not) then replace the clutch 285785
Here are the breakdown diagrams and http://www.appliancepartspros.com/brake-clutch-gearcase-parts-for-whirlpool-gst9679pb0.html
Post the results.
Simon.
So…I cannot even get to the drive block without the correct spanner wrench. I cannot even get to the clutch/drive block for an inspection, so I’ve got to chase it down pronto.
I’m going to order the wrench, along with a few of the most likely parts, so that I can get this thing back in action.
Where would you start? What component would you consider to be the MOST likely to be causing all of this?
I figure the clutch and drive block, based on what I’ve read to this point. Anything I’m missing?
I’ll put in an order for the spanner wrench, the drive block, and the clutch, then we’ll go from there. Hopefully it’s one of those two things. Do we need any special tools to remove/install the clutch assembly? I want to get things lined up so that we can do it all at once.
Anything I need to know before jumping into this mess?
Thanks in advance for all of you guy’s help; I really appreciate it!
Hi.
You don’t need the spanner ranch to check the drive block.
Remove the agitator and inspect the top of the block. If it’s not cut through by the spin tube - it’s OK.
That’s what I would start with.
Next move on to the clutch.
No special tools needed.Just take it easy and go step by step using the video clip instructions.
Simon.
OK, Simon, I’ll start there.
If I post a few close-up pics will you take a peek at it as well? Show me what to look for? It seemed to be in pretty good shape, from what I could see/tell…but I have ZERO experience determining what’s going on in there.
I appreciate your help - very much. I’ll make my way to the clutch next. Once I’m there, I’ll post a few pics of that component as well.
Wish me luck! Haha!
One more thing, Simon -
To check that there’s nothing stuck between the basket and the outer tub, will I need a spanner wrench? That seems to be a common occurence, so I want to rule it out (wouldn’t THAT be an easy fix!) before digging deeper.
Is there another way to check that there’s nothing jammed in there?
Hi.
Take out the cabinet, remove the tub ring
[part]W10213410[/part]
Now you can look inside between the tub and the basket.
Simon.
Simon - can I get the basket out without having removed the drive block/drive block nut?
I’m not right near the machine, or else I could just run and check…I thought that I needed to remove the drive block assembly before I could get the tub out - but honestly, I have no idea…
Hi.
In order to take the basket out you need to remove the spanner nut. Basket seats on the drive block.
Look from the top onto the drive block. It has two grooves which engaging the spin tube. If those grooves are damaged the basket will not spin. if the drive block looks good then replace the clutch.
Simon.
Hey Simon -
So, here’s where I’m at…
The drive block is good. I yanked the drive block nut to just check things out under the basket; nothing seems to be out of whack with any of that.
Next - inspected the clutch. Things look grim there, so I’ve rounded up a replacement, and have it installed.
Here’s my question for today: There are 3 bolts/cap screws holding on the entire motor/transmission assembly. One of the 3 bolts on this washer is completely gone. Is there I can find the bolt/cap screw locally? Or is that a special order piece? I’m going to look around here, either way, in an effort to save the shipping time. That’s the real deal breaker, or else I’d just order it up right away.
Have you ever seen this before? Do those bolts just work themselves out over time?
Nothing else on the underside looked fishy at all, honestly. The clutch was worn, but I didn’t see any big oil marks, no terrible filth, no crazy looking wear on anything. I’m hoping that the clutch replacement will solve most of the issues on this machine.
Thanks for all of your help - couldn’t have made it this far without you!
Hi.
You are most welcome.
I believe, you should be able to find the bolt in a machine shop/hardware store.
And I don’t recall replacing this bolts.
Good luck.
Simon.
Simon -
One quick question:
I installed the new clutch, and it’s rockin’. I still have one quick question, however…
At the very last rinse cycle, the machine just pumped, but didn’t spin. Once it was completely drained, it did spin. BUT - I had the controls set to "extra spin" just to be sure that things were spinning…which they did for the entire cycle.
I was sort of under the impression that it was to be spinning every single time that it was pumping - but I may be wrong on that.
What do you think about that?
That’s depend on the internal timer set up.
Simon.
Simon / APP Team said:
That’s depend on the internal timer set up.
Simon.
How do I determine this?
I’ll do one more additional test to see if it spins during the final "drain" cycle, but I believe that we’re ready to go on this project. Everything else seemed to be functioning at 100%.
Prior to the clutch replacement, it wasn’t spinning at all, EVER, so I know we’ve made some significant progress on it.
The washer has a neutral drain gearcase. When it first starts draining directly after agitation, it should drain for a minute or two without spinning. The motor should then pause for a few seconds and when it starts again, it should be draining and spinning to the end of cycle. The pausing of the motor causes the release of the neutral drain mechanism to allow spinning when it starts again.
Eric