Whirlpool Oven won't heat up

Oven Repair (including Ranges and Cooktops)
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1

I have a Whirlpool gas ovev (mod# SF362LXSQ) that is just under 2 years old that the oven and broiler have stopped working. The stove burners work fine.

When you try and start the oven, you hear several "clicks" and then nothing. When it did work it would "click" then you would hear a rush a gas and the oven would heat up.

All power and controls on the panel seem to be working fine.

When we first moved into our house 5 years ago it came with a Kenmore oven that was 3 years old and eventally started doing the same thing. A repair man said something about a control panel being the problem and it was more economical to replace the oven then just repair the old one. Now we seem to be having the same problem with the new one.

Has any one heard of this being a common problem and what are some ideas to try and fix it.

Thanks for any help
Jim S

3

After looking around on the web a lot of people seem to think this could be the ignitor. I have removed the ignitor, but is there any way to test it and see if that is the problem?

Thanks
Jim

4

If your oven has a bake and a broil burner it’s not very common for both ignitors to fail at the same time I would lean more to trouble shooting the board

5

replaced the oven burner and still nothing. how do I trouble shoot the board?

6

Jim,

You have to have a simple multimeter. You can find the complete instructions in one of our previous posts: http://forum.appliancepartspros.com/oven-repair-including-ranges-cooktops/4810-how-check-continuity-ohmmeter.html

Gene.

7

Gene,

Put the new regulator on tonight, Oven fired up first try. All seems to be fine now. Thanks a lot for the info.

Jim

8

Jim,

We are glad you were able to fix it.

Gene.

9

I am experiencing the same problem, but both legs are measuring approximately 208 ohms. Is this close enough, or is there some other problem? No gas at all is making it out of the valve when I disconnect the lines. Im at a total loss here.

10

BrianStanton said:
I am experiencing the same problem, but both legs are measuring approximately 208 ohms. Is this close enough, or is there some other problem? No gas at all is making it out of the valve when I disconnect the lines. Im at a total loss here.

What is the complete model number of the oven?

Can you be more specific on the problem?

Gene.

11

The oven model number is SF362LXSB0.

The problem is that the oven/broiler does not heat up at all. I checked the gas flow at the valve for the cook top burners, and all is fine there, but nothing comes out when I try to start the oven part. I checked the resistances, but all looks normal there too.

12

I bet it’s the solenoids on the gas valve check your resistance on it Those valves are crap even tho the top works it would keep the oven from working

http://www.servicematters.com/docs/wiring/wiring_main.htm

[SIZE=1][FONT=Swiss721BT-Roman][SIZE=1][LEFT]Check between each solenoid for 216 [/SIZE][/SIZE][/FONT][SIZE=1][FONT=SymbolProportionalBT-Regular][SIZE=1]Ω [/SIZE][/SIZE][/FONT][FONT=Swiss721BT-Roman][SIZE=1][FONT=Swiss721BT-Roman][SIZE=1]resistance
(Broil terminal to Common, and Bake terminal
to Common).[/LEFT]
[/SIZE][/FONT][/SIZE][/FONT][SIZE=1][FONT=Swiss721BT-Bold][SIZE=1][LEFT]NOTE: [/SIZE][/SIZE][/FONT][FONT=Swiss721BT-Roman][SIZE=1][FONT=Swiss721BT-Roman][SIZE=1]Always check both solenoids. If one of[/LEFT]
the solenoids is defective, neither one will operate
[/SIZE][/FONT][/SIZE][/FONT]

13

I’ve checked those, both are getting 208ish ohms resistance.

14

next question are you getting voltage to it? is the electrode sparking? did the safety on the valve accidently get tripped?

15

Part Details - WHIRLPOOL Gas valve/regulator, part number: AP3866825

is the safety the valve in the lower left corner of this picture?

16

The safety valve was the problem, thanks for the suggestion.

17

no problem Glad it wasn’t anything serious

18

— Begin quote from Gene;38576

Hi Jim,

Remove the bottom drawer. Locate the gas valve/regulator with three electrical solenoids terminals on the back of the range. The middle terminal is Common, the upper terminal is Broil and the bottom terminal is Bake. Mark all wires and remove them from the terminals. Check between each solenoid for 216 Ohms resistance (Broil to Common and Bake to Common). If one of the solenoid is defective, neither one will operate and the gas valve/regulator has to be replaced.

  • The part number for the gas valve/regulator is AP3866825

If there is nothing wrong, post the results and we’ll proceed with further diagnosis.

Gene.

— End quote

I found this post after having the same problem with my oven. The repair man that came to fix it could not figure out the problem until I showed him this post. He tested the solenoid as you instructed. To make a long story short, we replaced the gas valve/regulator and our oven is working great!!! Thank you much!! :slight_smile:

19

— Begin quote from OrvD;160284

Gene… We have a similar problem, igniters spark as req’d but oven and broiler burners do not light The resistance across the oven and broiler to common on the control valve each measure about 196 ohms. This is with a cheap tester… whereas it should be 216 ohms… would there be this much error from the cheap tester? Or is does the control valve need to be replaced?

— End quote

Can you smell or hear the gas open while it’s sparking?

Gene.

20

196 Ohms reading looks pretty strange and suspicious. On the other side the gas valve is not cheap and it’s better to get a more reliable test result.

Gene.

21

just outta curiousity, should i be able to see the ON on the safety valve when it is in the proper position so that the oven will work? i am trying to diagnose the same problem these ppl had (no oven or broiler, but stovetop ok). thanks.
harry