I have a 4 year old Whirlpool Quiet Partner ii Model # DU1100XTPQ8. Last week, the clean light started flashing 7 times mid cycle. I was unable to start a new load or finish the one that was already there. I researched online and found the "secret" reset button code, which did clear the error and I was able to run a load.
Skip ahead 2 days, and the light is flashing again. It seems to be coming on every 3 washes or so. I am worried that there might be something really wrong. I can clear the error and it will allow me to run a load, but I keep having to enter the error code.
Does anyone know what I need to do? Is it a part I can replace myself?
i hve a whirlpool quiet partner 2 model DU1145XTPB6 purchased in 05’. had the clean light blink 7 times. did the reset on control panel. cleared it, light came on again after it was trying to wash. just had plumbers re-do pipes in house, they took DW out and put back in, now i hve found 2 wires under tub, 1 from heater element (orange)and other from main wiring harness(white/red stripe) disconnected. they were attached to this little button cell type part with 2 prongs. part # could either be cs-7sa-80 or i think 3371518 kind of hard to read so small. was wondering if those 2 wires had to be connected correctly, or could go to either side of that part. any help would be appreciated. marc
i hve a whirlpool quiet partner 2 model DU1145XTPB6 purchased in 05’. had the clean light blink 7 times. did the reset on control panel. cleared it, light came on again after it was trying to wash. just had plumbers re-do pipes in house, they took DW out and put back in, now i hve found 2 wires under tub, 1 from heater element (orange)and other from main wiring harness(white/red stripe) disconnected. they were attached to this little button cell type part with 2 prongs. part # could either be cs-7sa-80 or i think 3371518 kind of hard to read so small. was wondering if those 2 wires had to be connected correctly, or could go to either side of that part. any help would be appreciated. marc
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Cherma, The heater element circuit, is not a polarity sensitive circuit, so no it won’t matter which wire attaches where. the white / red wire, from the control needs to be on one terminal, and the orange wire to the heater element needs to be on the other thermostat terminal.
I’m having the same problem as well. Clean light blinks 7 times, reset already twice. Seems to be getting hot while running, and started it with hot water as well. How do I check the thermostat, heating element, or control board? Or do i need to take some other action first?
I’m having the same problem as well. Clean light blinks 7 times, reset already twice. Seems to be getting hot while running, and started it with hot water as well. How do I check the thermostat, heating element, or control board? Or do i need to take some other action first?
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Spgaalaas, In order to test the heater and thermostat circuit, you’ll need a multi meter
[part]AP5641751[/part]
To circuit check the heater circucit located on the bottom of the dishwasher tub.You’ll need to remove power to the dishwasher, remove the kickplate and lower access panel so you can access the terminals on the heater and hi limit thermostat.
Label and disconnect the wires attached to the heater element terminals, place the meter leads, across the terminals and you should have a resistance teading of 10 to 35 ohms, if the heater is "good". Reattach the wires to the heater, if alls OK, diwsconnect the wires from the high limit thermostati, plce the meter leads across the thermosta terminals, you should have a "closed"(infinite resistance) circuit across the terminals at room temperature(below 140 dgrs.).
If all checks are OK, or in range, You will need to check the heater circuit at the control board( you didn’t include a specific model number). You’ll need to check for the 10 to 35 ohms resistance at the control board connector, to determine if the circuit is "colmplete" and replace the control board, if that’s the case.
You do want to varify the water temperature in the tub, on the first fill. it needs to be a minimum of 120 dgrs. F. in the bottom of the tub, when the motor starts to wash. (the hotter, the better). The control board has a maximum amount of time to increase the water temperature to 140 dgrs.F.) if the control board does not see the circuit, resistance, etc. the "clean" light will flash 7 times.
Hey Joe, thanks for the quick reply. I checked the heater element and came up with 10.6 ohms, I think I found the thermostat small button looking thing that lives on the outside of the tub, its ohms were 00.1 - 00.2 it was bouncing between the two. My model number is DU1100XTPS7 I am not too sure about were to find the heater circuit on the control board. looks like there is another one of though’s thermostat buttons inside the control area as well it ohms at 00.1 as well.
spgaalaas said:
Hey Joe, thanks for the quick reply. I checked the heater element and came up with 10.6 ohms, I think I found the thermostat small button looking thing that lives on the outside of the tub, its ohms were 00.1 - 00.2 it was bouncing between the two. My model number is DU1100XTPS7 I am not too sure about were to find the heater circuit on the control board. looks like there is another one of though’s thermostat buttons inside the control area as well it ohms at 00.1 as well.
Spgaalaas, So far you’re doing fine. You should have had 000 in your meter display, when you tested the thermostat(s), but that’s just a meter setting issue. Now you’ll need to disconnect the red/white wire from the P3 terminal and the blue/red wire from the P9 terminal on the control board, and check the resistance across the wires(not the control board) and you should have 10.6 phms resistance. If you do, that confirms the thermostat, heater element and wiring are "good. You’ll need to recheck the water temperature in the bottom of the tub after the first fill of a wash cycle (water temperature needs to be 120 to 130 dgrs.F.) If the water temperature is in range, then you’ll need to replace the control board.
Hey Joe sorry it took so long to get back to you. just a question, should I be checking these with it plugged in or disconnected? I see your first post said to turn off power, or plug. Also can I just pull the wiring harness that holds all four wires, then test while still in the harness? Pulling the four wire harness and testing that way gave me 16.1 ohm’s. I check the water temp last night just before it was going to drain and start flashing the light code, did not seem hot, just warm at best. Started with hot water running at the tap to insure hot water. water from the tap seemed to be much hot than in the bottom of the dishwasher. Dish’s still dirty!
spgaalaas said:
I popped out the start button facial piece as well!
Spgaalaas, You’re on target. Yes you want to remove power to the dishwasher, we don’t need to get "zapped" with 120 VAC, when we’re working. You also don’t want any loose wires shorting or arcing during a repair either. You do want to disconnect the wires from the component when you test it(label them first, or have a good memory), that way you test the compnent resistance, and you eliminate any possible false readings. And you’re on target for the control board harness, disconnect the plug from the board and test the wires in the connector.
The disturbing part is the water temperature, it should be 120 to 130 dgrs. at the start of the cycle and needs to be the same on all fill cycles for the remainder of the cycle(a few degree drop wouldn’t make a major / noticable difference). Re confirm the component and circuit resistances, so we can pin this down to a water temperature issue,or a control board malfunction, and we can go from there.
Hey Joe
Just checked the wires from P3, and P9 and came up with .011
Checked water temp from tap, 137 degrees
running the washer now to see about the temp inside while running, just opened it up during the wash cycle to check temp it was 119 degrees.
I did notice that the water level was barely touching the heating coil, plus it does not look as if any water is getting spread throughout the washer.
It says that it is washing, but all that happens is it is filling , then draining. at no point is it spaying water around.
I keep checking the water temp. from time to time and it is around 127 degrees all of the time. Water just barely touches the heating element, never really runs, just fills, then drains, and take forever.
Hey Joe
Just checked the wires from P3, and P9 and came up with .011
Checked water temp from tap, 137 degrees
running the washer now to see about the temp inside while running, just opened it up during the wash cycle to check temp it was 119 degrees.
I did notice that the water level was barely touching the heating coil, plus it does not look as if any water is getting spread throughout the washer.
It says that it is washing, but all that happens is it is filling , then draining. at no point is it spaying water around.
I keep checking the water temp. from time to time and it is around 127 degrees all of the time. Water just barely touches the heating element, never really runs, just fills, then drains, and take forever.
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Spgaalaas,
Re check for multi meter setting, you should have read 10.6 ohms across the the p3 and P9 wires, with the wires attached to the thermostat and heater.
Now the no wash or water circulation problem. The water temps are in range, the water level should be touching the bottom of the element, or within 1/4 inch of it, so you’re in range there. If you can hear the motor the motor run, but no water circulation,it could mean the filter is clogged with sediments and debris, so you’ll need to remove the lower spray arm, and the accumulator
[part]AP3609773[/part]
and check the filter screen and components for debris or sediment. You’ll need to remove the protector
[part]AP3851156[/part]
and check the chopper blade and screen for the same. If alls OK,
You’ll need to remove the motor and volute from the sump assembly, and check the impeller
have whirlpool du1100xtpt0. Clean light flashing 7 times have replaced the heating element; tried a thermister and that wasn’t the problem. sent it back; have reset the code with heated dry, normal; and also heated dry hi-temp. I know for sure the water temperature is great and the pressure is great. have cleaned out the bottom of the tub. it runs for a while and shuts off. and sometimes when i get it to run it goes to rinse cycle right away. I open the door and my glasses steam up but when I touch the heating element it is not hot to the touch. I’m at my wits end because I have been dealing with this for about a month now. I replaced a heating element last year and about a month ago, all of a sudden I heard a noise and looked over at the dishwasher and I saw smoke coming out the right side of the front at the top. When I opened the door I found a top to a bottle of water laying underneath the heating element. I naturally thought that it did something to the element. But I replaced it and no luck.
have whirlpool du1100xtpt0. Clean light flashing 7 times have replaced the heating element; tried a thermister and that wasn’t the problem. sent it back; have reset the code with heated dry, normal; and also heated dry hi-temp. I know for sure the water temperature is great and the pressure is great. have cleaned out the bottom of the tub. it runs for a while and shuts off. and sometimes when i get it to run it goes to rinse cycle right away. I open the door and my glasses steam up but when I touch the heating element it is not hot to the touch. I’m at my wits end because I have been dealing with this for about a month now. I replaced a heating element last year and about a month ago, all of a sudden I heard a noise and looked over at the dishwasher and I saw smoke coming out the right side of the front at the top. When I opened the door I found a top to a bottle of water laying underneath the heating element. I naturally thought that it did something to the element. But I replaced it and no luck.
Please help!!!
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Cfisse, Based on your post, you may want to start at the control panel keypad assembly
[part]AP3774267[/part]
"it runs for a while and shuts off. and sometimes when i get it to run it goes to rinse cycle right away"
If the keypad circuits are malfunctioning or intermittent, this could cause the dishwasher control board to "short cycle" and / or misinterpret the selection made.
You’ll want to get a multi meter
[AP5641751]
so you can check the resistance of the heater element, thermostat and wires, and voltage to the thermostat and heater from the control board.
The attached service file will help you out to reset the control board properly and conduct the diagnostics tests and resistances of the circuits and components in the heater circuit, etc.
Cfisse, Based on your post, you may want to start at the control panel keypad assembly
[part]AP3774267[/part]
"it runs for a while and shuts off. and sometimes when i get it to run it goes to rinse cycle right away"
If the keypad circuits are malfunctioning or intermittent, this could cause the dishwasher control board to "short cycle" and / or misinterpret the selection made.
You’ll want to get a multi meter
[AP5641751]
so you can check the resistance of the heater element, thermostat and wires, and voltage to the thermostat and heater from the control board.
The attached service file will help you out to reset the control board properly and conduct the diagnostics tests and resistances of the circuits and components in the heater circuit, etc.
[ATTACH]5624[/ATTACH]
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I have already tried all this and no luck; and I already have the tech sheet; Anything else we can do?
I have already tried all this and no luck; and I already have the tech sheet; Anything else we can do?
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You may want to test the heater circuit resistance at the control board and door switch wire terminals.
P6(white with Red stripe) to Door switch (white/purple stripe), Remove the wires from the components and check the resistance between the wire terminals. There should be a resistance of 10 to 35 ohms, this should confirm, the wires, hi limit switch, and heater are OK. Reattach everything, disconnect the White/Red wire from the hi limit switch, attach your meter leads to the wire terminal and chassis ground, program the diagnostic cycle, You should read 120 VAC on the wires at the start of the test mode and halfway through the test cycle(increment 1 and 9 of the test) No voltage, would indicate an issue in the control board
[part]AP3775585[/part]
or a wiring issue., between the control board and the bottom of the dishwasher door.
