I believe the relay/capacitor has failed. I ordered/have the replacement parts per Whirlpool (part number [FONT=Arial][SIZE=2][FONT=Arial][SIZE=2]4387835) however I am confused with the installation. The previous owner (purchased refrigerator with house) appears to have replaced this part previously, however replaced with a SUPCO 3 n 1 vs. the manufacturers part. They altered the wiring harness and I need a wiring diagram in replacing this part with the correct one. Thank you for your assistance in advance!
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UPDATE: I found a wiring diagram - just to be sure I do this correctly, the red wire from the condensor fan connects to the overload, the white to the top terminal of the relay. So the white wire catches both top terminals off of the compressor? There are no other wires running to these pieces, so I am assuming this is it? The diagram identifies an additional blue wire off of the right relay to a run cap, however I do not see this on my refrigerator. Can you please confirm this is all that I do? Seems too easy and I must be missing some other connection. Thank you again.
They allways put the run capacitor near the compressor, sometimes in back of the compressor, just double check there is none, a small, black plastic item.
Your replacement, start device must be wired up properly to prevent compressor burnout. If you have a meter let us know and I can help.
Also, if you know how the hard start device was wired in, that will help.
If another capacitor is to be near the compressor, it may have been removed with the previous fix = $100 missing part. :mad: I felt around the compressor and did not find a location for another probe or area where another capacitor would be wired in. There are no additional wires running to the compressor, other than a red and white wire from the fan and the wiring diagram identifies a run capacitor as optional. I went ahead last night and installed the overload and relay while waiting to see what would happen, attaching red and white wires as indicated in diagram and system ran and produced ice. Based on your comment, I disconnected and will wait for your response. There is also a ticking type noise which seems to come from the fan when it runs and I don’t know what that is either, but less concerned if it is only a noise and not a malfunction - I just want the refrigerator back. I have the 3 N 1 diagram on that component as well as pictures to document what the wires looked like prior to removing the 3 N 1. I do have a meter. I found a forum on another site that identifies 3 N 1 was a bad fix :mad: and is why I haven’t called someone else. I really appreciate your help.
The run capacitor ads current to the start winding which increases running toque to the compressor. If the compressor was designed to have one, it is important to ad it. Most of them are 12 to 15 mfarad. It gets wired between the run and start pins.
Your diagram shows it was screwed to the side of the fridg wall. I found one AP3958800 for $20,
the ones with wires are $78
I didn’t find that part with that part number. What I was able to locate is: AP3085822 with the wires, but I can’t do another 78 now. Can you send where you found that other part? If I understand correctly, the run capacitor is to provide additional torque to keep the motor running when it gets hot. The 3 N 1 didn’t have the run capacitor, so since it worked for ~4 years and quit only because of the electrical storm, is it a health/safety issue to use without the run capacitor? I don’t want a fire, but also can’t throw another $78+ shipping right now. Also, you said you saw a diagram that showed it was attached to the side of the fridge, can you post that diagram? What I have is a parts list, wiring diagram and user manual, but none of that shows exactly where the pieces are to be installed. Thank you again for your time and expertise.
If your fridg has R134A refrigerant in it, it has the more efficient compressor that is likely to fail during power surges if a hard start device is used. If you want to use one, I recomend you use a 1000 joule surge protector in the wall outlet to prevent compressor burnout.
For the run capacitor, If you can’t afford a new one, I would try a local repairman and get a used one.