This is a very old refrigerator. The wires from the refrigerator are red and white. The two red wires get shorted together and go to the spade terminal on the coiled start relay, the white wire goes to the round overload, there is no run capacitor. The start relay plugs into the bottom two compressor terminals, the overload plugs into the top terminal.
I saw your compressor parts at the Sears parts site, but it had no schematic.
I did see a start capacitor though. If you have a meter, I can direct you to wire it up.
`The old compressor terminals where common pin on top , start pin, bottom left and run pin bottom right. The overload wire (the round item) plugs in the top pin, the relay plugs in the bottom two pins. One fridg wire plugs into the overload, the other plugs into the coiled relay. The condensing fan wires are in parallel to the refrigerator wires.
You probably have a bad component. I would order a new start device, AP4503032 for this, comes with wiring info.[LEFT][COLOR=#000000]
All im asking is about that part number nothing more ok
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Symptoms: Freezer cold/fridge warm/evapourator iced over.
[LIST=1]
*]Continuity checked thermostat - confirmed closed when cold open when warm.
*]Continuity checked heater element - confirmed 28ohms[/LIST]Question:
I would like to check the electronic defrost timer by manually initiating a defrost cycle to confirm timer problem. How can I easily acomplish this?
Some web sites indicate turning on and off the fridge using the on/off button 5 times which should send the unit into imidiate defrost. Do you know which color wires at the connector in the back of the freezer are the ones from the defrost timer? Are there any schematics available?
Thanks for the info. I will run diagnostics as indicted on sheet. If the heater does function in diagnostics forced mode Step 6 does this indicate the timer module requires repalcement?