XLO ignite works but no gas flow

I have a Thermador PRG364GDUS with similar issues as those who posted here. The rear XLO burner had issues where the gas would go out and the re-ignitor would come on. The problem gradually got worst and now, I do not hear any gas coming thru the burner at all. Only the re-ignitor making clicking noise but no gas flows thru for the burner to ignite. The front XLO works fine as are the other 2 regular burners. I was looking at the solenoid part #AP2828839 as the culprit that needs to be changed.

I have not tested the poteniometer as I have no idea how to access it.

Oven cooktop control replacement parts for THERMADOR PRG364GD | AppliancePartsPros.com

Based on this, part #14 is no longer available

Please help me. Many thanks.

— Begin quote from nexttw;460028

I have a Thermador PRG364GDUS with similar issues as those who posted here. The rear XLO burner had issues where the gas would go out and the re-ignitor would come on. The problem gradually got worst and now, I do not hear any gas coming thru the burner at all. Only the re-ignitor making clicking noise but no gas flows thru for the burner to ignite. The front XLO works fine as are the other 2 regular burners. I was looking at the solenoid part #AP2828839 as the culprit that needs to be changed.

I have not tested the poteniometer as I have no idea how to access it.

Oven cooktop control replacement parts for THERMADOR PRG364GD | AppliancePartsPros.com

Based on this, part #14 is no longer available

Please help me. Many thanks.

— End quote

Next,

Some good news,
I was able to get a substitute part number for the potentiometers,

Depending On Model #, Changes To Either 422748 Or 422749

[part]AP3782975[/part]

[part]AP3782976[/part]

Some basic instructions,

Removing a Spark Switch, Potentiometer, and Gas Valve

  1. Turn off gas supply and the electrical power going to the range.
  2. Remove the control panel from the range, and rotate it forward.
  3. To remove a spark switch:
    a) Remove the mounting screw and slide it off the alignment pin on the the valve,then disconnect the two wires from the terminals.
    b) Connect the wires to the terminal of the new spark switch and mount it to the gas valve with its mounting screw.
    To Remove a Potentiometer
    a) Pull it forward and unsnap it from the valve, then remove it from the shaft and pull the edge connector from the board.
    b) Push the edge connector onto the circuit board of the new potentiometer, then slide the potentiometer onto the gas valve so that it snaps into place over the shoulder screws.
    To Remove a Gas Valve
    a) Remove the spark switch, or potentiometer, then remove the two screws from the clamp, and remove the valve.
    b) Install the spark switch or potentiometer on the new gas valve and reconnect the wires, then mount the gas valve to the manifold with the clamp and two screws.
    c) Check the new connections for leaks.
    Reassemble the range.
    I think this will get you through the repair.

Good Luck,
:slight_smile: :slight_smile: :slight_smile:

a) Remove the two screws from the solenoid valve cover and remove the cover from the range.
b) Unscrew the gas line fittings from the inlet and outlet of the gas solenoid valve you wish to remove, then disconnect the two wire connectors from the terminal. NOTE: if necessary, remove the two bracket screws and remove the entire gas valve solenoid assembly from the range.
c) Remove the two mounting screws and lock washers from the gas valve solenoid valve and remove the valve from the bracket.
d) install the new gas valve solenoid on the bracket,and mount the bracketassembly to the range.

Joe,

Thanks for the quick response :slight_smile:

After removing the potentiometer and swapping them, the XLO burner that was malfunctioning still DOES NOT light. I can see and hear the ignitor trying to start the burner but I still do not hear any gas coming thru.

The other XLO burner that is working continues to work fine AFTER the swapping of the potentiometer.

Does this mean that I have a bad solenoid and need to replace that?

My model # on the range is PRG364GDUS

— Begin quote from nexttw;460587

Joe,

Thanks for the quick response :slight_smile:

After removing the potentiometer and swapping them, the XLO burner that was malfunctioning still DOES NOT light. I can see and hear the ignitor trying to start the burner but I still do not hear any gas coming thru.

The other XLO burner that is working continues to work fine AFTER the swapping of the potentiometer.

Does this mean that I have a bad solenoid and need to replace that?

My model # on the range is PRG364GDUS

— End quote

Next,

Yes,

That’ll be the next logical step.

Also check and make sure the wiring has no loose connections.

Good Luck,

:slight_smile: :slight_smile: :slight_smile:

[part]AP2828839[/part]

Hi Joe,

That’s the part I ordered. Will keep you posted on results. Thanks so much for your help :slight_smile:

— Begin quote from nexttw;463149

Hi Joe,

That’s the part I ordered. Will keep you posted on results. Thanks so much for your help :slight_smile:

— End quote

Next,

Good Deal,

Great,

We’ll keep an eye out for your next post.

:cool: :cool: :cool:

— Begin quote from nexttw;464550

Joe,

Together with yours and Gene’s input, the problem was solved. It turned out to be a bad solenoid. Once that was replaced, all burners worked again. Thanks again for your help :slight_smile:

— End quote

Next,

Great,

We’re glad for you. It was our pleasure to assist.

Thanks and Good Luck,
:smiley: :smiley: :smiley:

to nexttw… I have a similar problem and the appliance repair guys came 5 times and souldn’t figure out how to get to the selenoid and re-igniter. How did you get into the area to replace the selenoid?

Any help would be much appreciated.

If you have the same model as mine, it’s simple to access the selinoid. Hope this help and others chime in if I miss something.

Removed all the metal grates that the pots/pans would usually be sitting on when you are cooking. Removed the center griddle and any loose metal trims. One you remove the griddle, you should be able to see the gas pipings from looking in b/t the space where the griddle sat.

Use a socket set that fits over the big hexagon shaped gas outlet. It’s is where the gas comes up an out of the stove when you turn on the stove to cook. Use the socket set to loosen that gas outlet and you should be able to hand loosen it once it’s loose and remove that entire black cover on the side with the bad selonoid. Socket is approx size of that used in replacing spark plugs in a car Now you should be able to see the selonoid pictured above and should have easy access to remove the selonoid and replace it.

FYI, I bought 2 of the selonoids just in case. I am glad I did as the other selonoid went bad about 2 months later.

— Begin quote from nexttw;759417

If you have the same model as mine, it’s simple to access the selinoid. Hope this help and others chime in if I miss something.

Removed all the metal grates that the pots/pans would usually be sitting on when you are cooking. Removed the center griddle and any loose metal trims. One you remove the griddle, you should be able to see the gas pipings from looking in b/t the space where the griddle sat.

Use a socket set that fits over the big hexagon shaped gas outlet. It’s is where the gas comes up an out of the stove when you turn on the stove to cook. Use the socket set to loosen that gas outlet and you should be able to hand loosen it once it’s loose and remove that entire black cover on the side with the bad selonoid. Socket is approx size of that used in replacing spark plugs in a car Now you should be able to see the selonoid pictured above and should have easy access to remove the selonoid and replace it.

FYI, I bought 2 of the selonoids just in case. I am glad I did as the other selonoid went bad about 2 months later.

— End quote

Nexttw,
Thanks for the update and the information.
It’ll come in handy for others who use the repair forum. Your info is on target and pretty concise.

Thanks Again,