Yet another "no start" dryer

Hello!

I have a GE electric dryer that stopped working midway through the third load of the night. I am getting zero reaction from it at all (no clicking or buzzing). I’ve tested the power to the machine and it seems fine. (with a multimeter)

So… I horrified my wife by tearing it apart and removed the drum so I could get a look at all the gooey insides. I started testing as best as I could (considering I have no idea what I’m doing) and I have continuity on the door switch, start switch and also the thermo high limit right.

I’m attaching the wiring diagrahm. Can anyone tell me the route of the start circuit and which components I still need to test? Should I be able to get zero ohms across the red to brown on the control timer? The "overload" protector looks like it is built right into the motor. Does that sound right? Can I still test it?

Sorry for all the questions, hopefully someone can help me out!

[ATTACH]1772[/ATTACH]

Check the interlock switch (broken belt switch). If it is good, you may have a bad motor or a bad control board.
[part]AP3994765[/part]

After a few minutes of deep breathing, I decided to continue on with this project. I am happy to report that I now have a mostly working dryer spinning away!!

I removed the motor from my timing switch and took the switch apart. I was able to get the switch working without the motor and once I reinstalled it motor-less, the dryer started working.

To the amazement of my wife, I somehow managed to put the dryer back together and I currently drying!! Whooo hoo, feel the power!

My question for the experts is… how was my dryer working without a timing motor (it still seems to shut itself off when our clothes are dry) and is it ok to run it this way??