I have a question on how to adjust the belt on this washing machine. I replaced the drain pump and loosened the bolts on the motor to get the belt back on. Once I place tension on the belt and tighten the motor bolts, the tension doesn’t stay tight. On this particular machine, there are plastic slides that hold the motor in place and it looks like maybe they are to move when the washer agitates and spins. It doesn’t seem like I can tighten the bolts enough to keep the motor from sliding and lossening the tension. Does anyone know if this is the way it should be?
Most likely the control board gone bad but the first thing I would do is check the bake heating element for continuity and for short on ground to prevent a new control board from damages.
Do all tests and post the results.
Gene.
P.S. You have to have a simple multitester in order to perform diagnosis.
Hi Gene - I have replaced the control panel (ordered thru appliancepartspro!!! Fastest service by the way :))
Ok, the control panel is working. I put the bake feature on 350 degrees. The control panel keeps clicking but the temperature of the initial 100 degrees does not go up nor does the oven heat up. There is no heat coming from the bottom (concealed) element. The top broiler element is trying to heat up though. I did not have it on broil. I have not tried the broil feature as I don’t want to possibly fry the control panel. There are no codes on the panel.
I did not do the mulitester because my husband said the range was 220 volts and the tester we had was only for 120?? Could I still use the tester we have on our range? How do I check for a short on the ground? I have replaced a bake heating element before (a long time ago) but I have no idea how to do it on a concealed heating element?
Any help would again be greatly appreciated. Amana Electric model AER5715QAS Series #16140261GJ
One other thing, there was one short gray wire hanging, next to the light switch (in the back). There was one spot not taken there, so I put that wire there. I reasoned that if it wasn’t for anything, it would have been protected with a cover and it was the only spot that wire could possibly reach. The oven light worked before and after I did this. Should I take that wire out?
Oh my God!! After taking the cover off the bottom of the range, there was no need to do a continuity test. There was a huge one inch hole in the bake element. Holy cat cows!! Thank God I did not blow the new control panel.
So, I’m off to your parts department for that. I will check out that gray wire after ordering the part.
There are three timers listed to purchase on the website. The serial number of my dryer is: TR255488G. Of the three Timers part # AP2042893 AP2042893 and AP2042902 which one is the correct timer for my dryer?
