Went to dry clothes the other day and the dryer would not start.
Checked breakers.
Checked for power and is ok.
Now what? I have read alot about the thermal fuse. I am almost certain that is not the issue.
Any other ideas or do I need to retire this dryer?
Thanks
If the dryer won’t start, the options are usually thermal fuse, door switch, or push-to-start switch. The door switch you can push with your finger to hear if it is clicking, but to check the others, it is best to use a multimeter and verify voltage in and out of each component. If you have access to the meter, I can give you some things to check and save this machine from an early retirement.
Sorry have been out of town and need to try and get this thing going.
What do I need to look for first. Again it will not start. I have replaced the start button.
Thanks again!
If I were playing the odds, I would say your thermal fuse () has failed. Disconnect the dryer from power and remove the rear panel. In the middle toward the bottom is a white thermal fuse (see photo at part link above) that has two wires connected to it. Remove both wires and temporarily slide the ends of the connectors together on edge and make sure they are not near any metal. Plug the unit back in and see if it starts. If so, then there is your problem. Only do this to test and never run an entire load (or several) with this safety component removed. If that doesn’t get you going, let us know and we will move on to the next item.
Then like a suggested in the first post, check the door switch and make sure it actuates with a click. The other items will require a multimeter to check for voltage, so if you have one handy, now is the time to get it and check for voltage to ground at the thermal fuse. And while your at it, check for voltage at the terminal block (where the power comes in) between black and white, red and white, and then black to red. Knowing these voltages will rule out another problem.
Black to White 121
Red to white 121
Black to red 242
Also getting nothing at fuse?
If you have nothing at either side of the fuse when measured to ground, then the timer is not working. Remove the control panel access and check the wiring on the timer. There should be 120vac at the black wire and with a cycles selected, 120vac at the blue wire leading to the thermal fuse. If voltage goes in but not out, the timer is bad.
I did check the fuse with the timer on (oops) and get 121 on one side of the fuse.
If you have voltage on one side but not the other, the fuse is bad. Turn off the power and try to bypass it like I wrote earlier and give it a try.
Ok tried it with the fuse hooked up correctly and get nothing at the start button while it is pressed. Then I took the blue fuse wires, hooked them togehter, and still get nothing at the red/white wire at the turn on switch.
Are your measuring between the two wires? One meter lead on the blue wire on the fuse, one on the red/white wire at the switch. Set timer to a cycle, press the start button and hold it down. What voltage do you get?
When I put one lead on the hot side of the fuse and the other lead on the red white at the switch I get 120…when I use the "dead" side of the fuse I get nothing…make sense?
Yes. This tells me the circuit is working, but the fuse is bad, and very likely the motor is bad because when you bypassed the fuse, it still didn’t do anything. The last thing you can check to verify the failure is to remove the front panel and the drum and take some measurements at the motor. With the fuse bypassed (because we know it’s bad) the same check on the blue wire and red/white can be made at the motor connector. If you set the timer for a cycle, and hold down the start button and get 120vac, the motor is bad. You may be lucky and just find a loose wire, but you will need to get to the motor to check it out. Pay attention to how the belt wraps around the idler or it won’t go back together so easily.
I believe I can get to the connector through the front of the unit without taking out the drum…(looks like a but of a pain!). If I disconnect it there I should be able to check the voltage at the white/red wire connecting to the motor. The only thing I will not be able to see is the motor itself. It sounds like the motor may have went bad blowing the fuse?
Ok I am getting 120 on the white / red wire at the connector to the motor…looks like a bad motor?..Guess my wife will get her way…she want a new front load washer and dryer…lol
I appreciate all of your help!
Glad I could be of assistance.