ok here is my Dryer problem, it seem the Drum is loose I can push it up from the inside, clothes get caught on the inside edges of drum and gets burns on it, i opened the top of the dryer belt looks ok, but the drum is very movable,if i turn the frum by hand it rubs againts the top front edge, What can I replace to fix?
I also have a Frigidaire,however a different model. This same thing is happening to me. Very loud grinding noises from time to time. It is also starting to create "snag" holes in some of the clothing. Often there will be clothes stuck between the drum and the internal frame. Getting ready to tear apart, thought I’d check here first. Thanks, Brian
Well the link didn’t come out.
Go to ******** dot com
In the search type in ‘Leaves marks on clothes’
scroll to like the third result where it mentions in the description about burn marks in the clothes
OK THAT’S IT
It’s f-i-x-i-t-n-o-w ignore the -'s
Similar to the complaints in this thread, our Maytag DG312 has this problem.
I read somewhere else (heh, lost URL…) that special riveting tools were needed to repair a grinding sound while drying, leaving marks on clothes…
We’ve had this thing for 20 years. Did its job until this.
Should we "upgrade" and fork over for a new unit rather than face a repair estimate and further delay?
When I first got this problem I took the dryer a part, thoroughly cleaned it. It drys faster now, but still G-R-I-N-D-S and today my wife pointed to marks on clothes attributable to the dryer.
What’s it going to cost? Buying special riveting tools sounds expensive for a one time job.
Looking forward to advice.
ggw
I have placed a very complete repair that I did to my MayTag DG312 gas dryer to cure the growling on my home website. Use a search engine for "Maytag Dryer DG312 Repair on 2008-05-11". I saved about $100 by anyone’s measure. The website is io.com / ~cjwyche / current.html
I have the bosch SHU42L with a high pitch noise only during the wash cycle . I popped off the panel while running and believe the noise is coming from the pump and not the valve solenoid. Has anybody had this problem and if so what part did you replace.
Anyone know how hard it is to replace the valve shaft seal on the GE dishwasher? Do I have to pull out the whole pump housing etc? I took the linkage parts off the shaft but I’m not sure how to get the seal out.
Thanks
S from WI
I have removed the fan cover and the two screws that hold the heat element in the lower oven but the element does not come loose from the wall. What else do I need to do?
Once it is removed, can I check the element with an ohm meter?
Thanks,
Blake
I have about 10 year old GE Dishwasher I replaced drain shaft "O-Ring and push on nut" #'s 415 and 417 as I had a leak at the drain shaft. A half hour job took me over an hour… Now that the leak has stopped, I replaced all the parts correctly I believe, my problem is that as a soon as the water fills inside the tub it then drains imediately out via the garbage disposal. once again I hear the water click on and seconds later it just drains back out. I was so happy I was able to stop the leak on the shaft with out having to buy a new unit. Please someone explain how do I change the unit from draining imediately!!!
Thanks in advance.
Crazy Larry…
Are you sure yo re-assembled the solenoid etc. correctly?
The solenoid should be up for the wash position, down for the drain position.
Remove the spray tower and look into it.
You will see the wash/drain flapper valve to the left.
Then manually push the solenoid plunger down and let it release.
Does the flapper valve work?
I was trying to figure out where the flapper was you mentioned above.
I have a break down of parts here. see below.
I did adjust the wire lever over the solenoid to the up position during wash cycle, it was a little tight in moving up & down so I gave it a quick squirt of "PAM" (cooking spray, I use it to lube everything ) it seemed a little smoother on up and down motion after that. I am praying that will solve the issue here. Thanks again…
Whenever you are in West Palm beach area I will buy you a Drink!!!
It is much better ( as soap would could be seen running down inside of the door prior that is how I figured it wasn’t rinsing just draining instantly as it filled. And I was worried it would burn out motors without water.) I an hear water actually moving around during many stages of the wash cycle. But I noticed it is still draining ever so much during many of the wash cycles is that normal?
Maybe I didn’t notice it before.
But I noticed it is still draining ever so much during many of the wash cycles is that normal?
No. May be a trickle but that would be all.
Sounds loke the flapper valve is still not sealing correctly.
Also in the mounted is a hole in the center of the flapper valve there is often a black rubber stop. When you looked down the pump throat did you see it?
If there was a hole then it is missing and that is where your leakage is.
Where is the ((flapper valve)) can you provide part number or where again I find this… sorry I cannot figure where to look…’
((( flapper valve there is often a black rubber stop. When you looked down the pump throat did you see it?))))
The unit does not leak on the floor anymore thank godness it only drains via the proper means via the garbage disposal only more than nomal I think. Does a "normal unit" shoot water ou before the short wash cycle i drains most of the tank then refills again… Mine sort of drools after water enters the tank then it seems to stop…
It is functioning I just don’t want to waste to much water with it haveing to fill up extra per load…
is the Flapper in side of the unit below the Spray or drain area?
Thanks again for your time…
LG
Click on the picture for more views and then on the center picture.
You can see the flapper with it’s rubber stop down the throat on the left hand side.
Without being there I cannot really say if it is running OK.
In Normal I think it does a rinse then refills and does a wash.
Some water draining out would not be abnormal as it is the water pressur that is sealing the flapper in the wash position so once wash pressure builds up it should seal OK. I would not worry about it if the unit is doing a good job.
PS: I should have told you the following earlier but it is one of those things that I just do automatically and never think about it…
Whenever replacing seals, faucets handles etc and other plumbing parts I always give them a light coating of lithium grease. They seem to install easier. Also when you have to take something apart 5 years down the road they do not have a scale build up which can seize parts together.
Well today water there was water by the base of front of the dishwasher. I thought push nut came lose but not the case it seems dripping at the end of the wash cycle it is dripping out of the bottom of the large Black shape motor to the right of the seloniod (SP)… I placed a plastic / paper plate to catch the water for the time being. The unit is from 1996 is it time to bite the bullet and send her to Diswasher Heaven? The model is GSD 980X68XX I really do appricate your time once again…
Thanks again…
Crazy Larry
Look at the parts in Section 3.
You have several options
Just the seal and pushnut Items 417 and 415
A seal & impeller kit Item 434
Or the pump assembly.
I would pull the pump apart before deciding what needs replacing.
If the motor shaft is rusted you will nee a new pump.
Could be it is time for a new unit.
First I would get in there with flashlight and a small mirror, to try and confirm that it is the seal that is leaking.
It could actually be leaking higher up.
Check the clamp Item 457.