I have ohmed everything it all checks out ok but still no heat all thermostats at o ohms, element at 9 ohms, timer at 0 ohms, heater for operating thermostat at 8000 ohms, 120 volts on both legs of the outlet I dont know what else to check and would appreciate any help. Soory a few more things to add I am showing power to the heating element on both sides whether the dryer is running or not and I tried disconnecting the heater wires for the operating thermostat and tried to run still no heat also getting power on both sides at the power strip. It is a whirlpool electric dryer sorry I cant find the model number
This may help you find a model number
http://www.appliancepartspros.com/modelnumber_locator.aspx
You said you saw 120 volts on both sides of the line but did you measure from L2 to L2 to be sure that you have 240 volts. Often when using Neutral as the reference you will see the same side of the line (120) just about everywhere because it is feeding back through the different parts.
Try flipping the breaker off/on slowly a couple times.
Sometimes you can loose half the line without actually tripping the breaker.
If this does nothing, check the voltage at the plug
L1 to L2 should be 240 volts
L1 to Neutral and L2 to Neutral, both should be 120 volts.
If OK
Unplug the unit and check the wires at the terminal strip in the machine to make sure none are loose or burned out
If OK
Check the power at the terminal strip.
Do this with the heater off and on.
Be careful as 240 volts is lethal !!!
A wiring diagram would be a big help here so hopefully you can find a model number. You could then measure from the plug to see where you loose continuity. Check in the control console for the wiring diagram they like to store them in there.
If you are confident that the heater, timer, thermostats and thermal cutoff are OK then what is left is a bad wire or the centrifugal switch on the motor.
The motor has 2 centrifugal switches, they are activated when the motor gets close to operating speed. One switches out he motor’s start winding but the other one switches in the heating element. This ensures that the heater does not come on before there is air flow.
You could unplug the unit and short the heater centrifugal wires together.
Tape them so they cannot short to anything or touch anything when the motor starts up. They are usually the larger two red wires,
Then plug it in and give it a try.
If you do this with the drum removed do not let it run very long as there will be no air flow over the heating coils and the thermal cutout will blow.
If you now have heat then either the switch is toast or the mechanical centrifugal mechanism in the motor is not closing it.
On most units you cannot get just the switch so the motor has to be replaced.
model number is LER4634EQ2 I tried jumping the red wires on the motor still nothing so I put in a different motor still nothing. when I try to meter from L1 to L2 I dont show anything on my meter It is a analog meter though. I tried the breaker trick still nothing getting power to both legs at the strip. I do not think the problem is with the power though previous dryer worked fine until I got ride of it. Anything else you can think of.