Out of the blue my oven has stopped functioning properly. Everything appears to work however the oven never heats up. The elements are cold yet the display says 350 deg. I tried the custom broil, bake and convection functions all with the same results. I doubt its the elements. The last thing we did to the oven was preformed the self-cleaning function on it. That worked but afterwards nothing appears to work.
Need help. Trying to locate the problem and fix it myself without calling a repair person over the holidays.
when you get your meter . put the oven on bake and check your power on thebake element if you do not have 240 volts then your control board is bad. if you have 240 volts then you element is bad.
When you say "My dishwasher pumps water continually…" - do you mean the dishwasher is being filled with water continuously or the pump/motor assembly is always on? If it’s the former, replace the valve. If it’s the latter, check your door switches first.
The flat glass cook top has 4 sections-4 sets of rings/, and on one set/section, only one ring heats up. The rest of the sets/sections heat up normally.
Can this one section be repaired to full operation?
Also started blowing the overtemp fuse. Checked all measurements okay according to the tech-sheet, except the broil element, which was 19 Ohm instead of the 45-55 ohm according to the tech-sheet. What is puzzling to me, is that according to "Ohms law", the 240V/3000W broil element SHOULD have a resistance of about 19. So what’s cookin’ here (no pun intended)? Is this also a miss-print in the tech-sheet, or is the element really defective? Why does the bake element conform to ohms-law, but not the broil element? I replaced the overtemp fuse again, but not the broil element. The oven worked for several months until last night, when we used the self-cleaning feature(!). Same symptoms as blown overtemp fuse, again.
Thanks,
Will
It has nothing to do with the Broil heating element. Problems with oven shut-down thermal fuses after self clean is most common problem with all Whirlpool electric ovens for over ten years. It happens because the oven exhaust heat is escaping from the top of the oven door because the door is not sealing properly. The warmer air is being pulled into the blower fan and directed across the thermo-disc, causing it to open.
There are two options for you:
Do not use the self clean
or
Install a kit specially designed by Whirlpool to solve this problem.
This kit contains the following items: oven door gasket, oven door glass and retainer, oven shut-down thermal fuse, blower assembly and bracket. It comes with the installation instructions.
The blower kit [part]AP3133595[/part]
Gene.
P.S. This part number is for 27" single ovens only. There are different part numbers for different ovens.
Thank you very much for your answer, and part# help. I’ll start by installing a replacement thermal-fuse, and an agreement w/ my wife not to use the self-cleaning feature. I’m thinking of pulling one of the latch-switch connectors off the front panel board (P3-7), assuming this will disable the self-clean feature.
RE: The broil-element ohm reading: I phoned Whirlpool to ask if there was a miss-print on the tech-sheet, and she wouldn’t or couldn’t answer the question, since as a customer I shouldn’t be looking at the tech-sheet! So just for my own peace of mind, is a missprint?
Thanks,
I do not think so because heat elements for self clean ovens are different, but I do not think you should worry about it unless there is a heating problem when you use Broil.
Very likely it would cause an error code and disable the oven.
Hi Gene
Your answer to Shebish "The part number for the thermal fuse (aka thermistor)" has helped to resolve the same problem I have with my KitchenAid oven. When I called a parts place they didn’t have a thermal fuse listed, but had a thermistor. I thought he said ‘thermistat’ so I was really confused. Now I know what to order.
Many thanks
Gadgets
Ok, I couldn’t help it…once I had the oven out to replace the over-temp device, I figured it was easy to experiment a bit at the same time. This is easily done w/ the oven pulled out just a few inches, and the front panel undone (power disconnected at fuse-box first).
I disconnected the grey wire to the door-lock solenoid, and positioned it out of the way. The oven worked normally. I then selected "self-clean": the oven started w/ all the normal self-clean indications, but after a minute or so realized that something was "wrong". It stopped, and correctly indicated a door-lock error code. Simply hitting the "cancel" button cleared the code, and allowed normal oven operation again. Now, when your mother-in-law is visiting, and she decides to do you a "favour" by cleaning your oven, it won’t cost you another $50 to replace the over-temp device!
