Hello Friends,
I have little over a year whirlpool Built-in Electric Convectton Oven. This is called Whirpool Gold and model number is GBS307PRS. I used self cleaning yesterday and now it won’t heat up. Everything else (light bulbs, control panel) seem to be working fine but oven.
Any help would be greatly appreciated.
Thanks in advance
:mad:
Unfortunately this is one of a most common problem with this generation of Whirlpool ovens. The easiest way to avoid it is not to use self clean.
The thermal fuse is located on the back of the oven and you have to remove it from the cabinet to replace the bad part.
Gene.
I removed the oven, removed all the back covers and the thermal fuse. Had the fuse tested at the same store I purchased the new one and it was bad.
took about 10 minutes to put everything back and HORAY!! it worked. Thanks for all the info.
Im in the same boat w/my whirlpool after a self cleaning its not heating as well… I need to know my part number my model number is RBS275PDQ16. I would also like to ask if they suggest you not use the self cleaning part of the oven then what do you suggest to do for cleaning it? I have heard that your not suppose to use oven cleaners on self cleaning ovens… thank you for your help
I’m having the same trouble with my oven. It won’t heat up after we used the self cleaning. I think it is probably the thermal fuse but I can’t seem to find any where to order the part! My oven is model number RBS305PRS00, Whirlpool, built-in electric oven.
Please help me Gene.
I have a GBS277PDq1 Whirlpool Gold Self Cleaning Oven. They should call it a self destructive oven. Like an idiot, I used the self cleaning mode. Followed instuctions. And the oven came out beautiful. But, of course it does not work now. I think it stopped heating before the cleaning cycle was done. When it cooled I went to bake cookies for my kids and found it wouldn’t heat. The display still shows the time. I push timer, and the cooked time comes on, not the timer. I push timer start and the oven starts baking.
The fan comes on, the light comes on, the burners do not heat. The timer does not work at all. The timed cooking thing turns on.
From my research online, as I am not an appliance guru, says the problem may be the thermal fuses, control panel. Or thermostat. I had a local appliance man come today. He wouldn’t listen to me. He said it was the thermostat. He didn’t even pull the oven out. I told him I heard the fuses burn out during self clean. And that there was a problem with the control panel that was not there before. that the wires seemed fried as the timer won’t come on, even with the oven off. Goes straight to timed bake. He said I just don’t know how to run the timer. I use my oven many times a week. And my kids use the timer for time outs, believe me I know how to use the timer.
So he got frusterated at me, said he will replace the control panel if I want him too and the thermostat. He didn’t even check the thermal fuses. Please tell me what is the part number for the thermal fuses. Is there one in the control panel and in the back of the oven. Do you think it is the thermal fuses. He said if it was the control panel, then the control panel should be blank. The numbers come on.
I’m at wits end, I can’t afford all these parts. My repair man was here for 5 minutes, didn’t test any fuses. Only pushed buttons on the front of the oven.
My email is cityfarmerdaughter at yahoo (dot) com.
Please I need your expertise. My daughter turns 3 this weekend, and now I can’t cook her cake!!
Tami
Hi gene,
I am having the same problem with a model RS675PXGQ0 drop in oven. Do you know what the part number is and the location of it on this model? Thanks
todd99,
The thermal fuse (#37 on the [AP3885687](http://www.appliancepartspros.com/partsearch/model.aspx?diagram_id=92087&&model_id=259771"]break down diagram[/URL]) is located on the back of the range, behind the rear panel.
Here are the break down diagrams for the Whirlpool range http://www.appliancepartspros.com/partsearch/model.aspx?diagram_id=92088&&model_id=259771
Gene.
Hi Tami,
Sorry for the delay. The oven is not heating due to a bad thermal fuse on the back of the oven (#37 on the [AP3885687](http://www.appliancepartspros.com/partsearch/model.aspx?diagram_id=91915&&model_id=259596"]break down diagram[/URL]). Some time this part called "thermostat", so maybe your tech meant the same part under the different name. In order to replace it the oven has to be removed from the cabinet. The problem with the control and the display does not look clear to me. I would recommend to replace the thermal fuse first and see how it will work.
Here are the break down diagrams for the Whirlpool oven http://www.appliancepartspros.com/partsearch/model.aspx?diagram_id=91916&&model_id=259596
Gene.
Hello Gene,
I have a Whirlpool Gold electric oven model GBS307PDQ1, which I have not seen discussed here.
Can I get the part number for the thermal fuse?
Also a link to the breakdown diagram?
Can I get the fuse at a home-improvement store, hardware store or appliance store maybe?
Eric
[QUOTE]…Can I get the part number for the thermal fuse?..
[/QUOTE]
Here are the breakdown diagrams and http://www.appliancepartspros.com/partsearch/model.aspx?model_id=259555
You can get it through appliance parts store only or you can order it from this site.
You can find more information in one of our previous posts: http://forum.appliancepartspros.com/oven-repair-including-ranges-cooktops/19695-cleaning-cycle-killed-our-kitchenaid-superba-double-oven-help.html
Gene.
Self clean just killed my rs696pxeq2. Before I replace the thermostat though, I see that pushing the top (up) temperature arrow (or the down arrow) makes the temperature go down, not up. Does this indicate an additional problem?
Also, if I intend to jigger the oven lock so that I can use self clean to bake pizzas at high temperature, will this keep happening? Is there a way to prevent it from blowing all the time? Thanks.
— Begin quote from Robiolo;177676
1) Self clean just killed my rs696pxeq2. Before I replace the thermostat though, I see that pushing the top (up) temperature arrow (or the down arrow) makes the temperature go down, not up. Does this indicate an additional problem?
2) Also, if I intend to jigger the oven lock so that I can use self clean to bake pizzas at high temperature, will this keep happening? Is there a way to prevent it from blowing all the time? Thanks.
— End quote
1) Yes, it does. Most likely the problem is a bad control panel. The white control panel is no longer available, but the black panel is still available.
2) The best way to prevent the thermal fuse from blowing is not to use the self clean and, using the self clean for cooking can cause fire.
Here are the breakdown diagrams and http://www.appliancepartspros.com/partsearch/model.aspx?model_id=259565
Gene.
— Begin quote from markarin;178446
…we have a Whirlpool RBS307PVS that now also fails to heat after we ran it through the self-cleaning cycle. Would you be so kind as to point me in the right direction for the thermal fuse part number and diagrams?
Thank you for all you do!!!
— End quote
The thermal fuse for your oven is shown as #30 on the diagram. The oven has to be removed from the cabinet to access the part.
Gene.
— Begin quote from Gene;20702
Hi gsran,
Most likely the problem with you oven is an open thermal fuse on the back of the oven. You have to remove the oven from the cabinet and remove the back cover from the oven to access the part.
Gene.
— End quote
Gene,
I have a 4 year old Whirlpool electric double oven model RBD245PDB15 with the same problem. My father-in-law checked the fuses according to the diagnostic manual in the oven & all fuses seemed to be ok. Can they test ok & still be blown? Some other blogs seem to indicate it could be the control panel assembly with membrane switch or the electronic clock control board. What are your thoughts? Thanks!
Which oven does not work? Do both Bake and Broil not work?
Gene.
Gene,
I looked up this part # and my model is not listed as one that works with this model. Does my Whirlpool RB260PXBQ1 have a different fuse part # in back of oven or doesn’t have one like other models? If so, where is the fuse?
— Begin quote from Gene;20702
Hi gsran,
Most likely the problem with you oven is an open thermal fuse on the back of the oven. You have to remove the oven from the cabinet and remove the back cover from the oven to access the part.
Gene.
— End quote
Mark,
According to the wiring diagram for this model (attached to the reply) there are no any safety devices in this oven. So the problem is a bad control board.
The white control has been discontinued by the manufacturer and is no longer available. The black control is on back order without ETA. You can talk to the [Replacement parts for WHIRLPOOL RB260PXBQ1 | AppliancePartsPros.com](https://server.iad.liveperson.net/hc/66305761/?cmd=file&file=visitorWantsToChat&site=66305761&byhref=1&imageUrl=https://www.appliancepartspros.com/img/livehelp/woman"]APP team[/URL] for more accurate information.
Here are the breakdown diagrams and [URL="http://www.appliancepartspros.com/partsearch/model.aspx?model_id=260085)
Gene.
Gene, you gave parts list for this whirlpool model. Another question since this control panel no longer available(parts person gave me # for repair @ CG Industries). Since I have broiler working and 1/2 of bake element wires, is there a possiblity that broiler is not a 240V like the bake element. The parts list it shows bake element at 240V/2600 watts but nothing listed for broiler element. My dad said that sometimes a breaker is working on 1/2 "phase" or "face" so if broiler is not the 240 like bake, then that’s why it works. If both elements are 240v then it can’t be breaker and the only other thing it could be is control board. He had another question regarding thermostat: does thermostat control both elements? He says that if it went out then it won’t let the bake element on if it only controls it and not broiler. If hooked to both, then no, you are back to "it’s the control board" issue.
— Begin quote from Mark4312;288720
Gene, you gave parts list for this whirlpool model. Another question since this control panel no longer available(parts person gave me # for repair @ CG Industries). Since I have broiler working and 1/2 of bake element wires, is there a possiblity that broiler is not a 240V like the bake element. The parts list it shows bake element at 240V/2600 watts but nothing listed for broiler element. My dad said that sometimes a breaker is working on 1/2 "phase" or "face" so if broiler is not the 240 like bake, then that’s why it works. If both elements are 240v then it can’t be breaker and the only other thing it could be is control board. He had another question regarding thermostat: does thermostat control both elements? He says that if it went out then it won’t let the bake element on if it only controls it and not broiler. If hooked to both, then no, you are back to "it’s the control board" issue.
— End quote
Mark,
I do have a question to you too. Have you tried to click on the file attached to the previous post? You can find all answers there.
Gene.
