Whirlpool Double Oven Dead

Oven Repair (including Ranges and Cooktops)
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1

Hi there,

My wife was running the cleaning cycle on our whirlpool rbd305pdb10 oven this week. At the end of the cycle we heard the oven beep. On the Oven the time had gone dead as well as the oven light.

I read on the boards here to try and replace the thermal fuse. I have done that and have the same result. The only thing else I am wondering if I should try replacing is the control board or the control panel.

Any thoughts on how to tell if one or the other is bad?

Thanks for any help

3

According to the wiring diagram there suppose to be a control panel thermal fuse which plugs into the control board and completely interrupts power if it’s blown.

Unfortunately this fuse is not shown in the parts list and I’m going to do more search Monday. So far you can open the control panel and check this fuse. It should be connected to "P24-3" terminal.

Here are the break down diagrams for the Whirlpool oven http://www.appliancepartspros.com/partsearch/model.aspx?diagram_id=109050&&model_id=263188

Gene.

4

Is there only one type of this fuse? Or are there different amp versions?

I did jumper past the fuse and the oven worked, so I am sure that is the problem.

Thanks

5

Hi, Gene. I have the same problem. Self-clean. Bam! Nothing shows on the display panel and no power. Difference is I have a different model double oven, Whirlpool RDB245PDB11. I’ve removed the control panel and can see the thermal fuse; should I replace this part? Thanks much!

6

AF_Retired,

Even the model number of your oven is deferent, the solution is the same. The control panel thermal fuse and, possible, the thermal fuse on the back of the upper oven.

Here are the break down diagrams for the Whirlpool oven http://www.appliancepartspros.com/partsearch/model.aspx?diagram_id=112397&&model_id=264000

Gene.

7

Scott,

Looks like you have the same situation as the other guys who posted here. The control panel thermal fuse and very likely the upper oven shutdown fuse are blown. I do not think the lower oven is affected because it was not used at that time. In case you have to remove the oven from the cabinet you’ll need a helper because it is pretty heavy. Otherwise it is not too difficult to replace the shutdown fuse (thermostat) on the rear panel.

Gene.

8

Gene,
I received the control panel fuse you recommended AP3110028. One of the ends was too small to fit the connector on my oven. One end of AP3110028 is smaller than the other and my oven RBD275PDB12 has the same bigger sized connections. However, I bent the smaller fuse connector a little bit to get a decent connection. I thought all was good, until…
I turned back on the breaker switch to the oven and I now have clock power and an oven lgiht, but nothing else. The clock will not even adjust as the control panel seems dead. Next?? Thanks! Scott

9

Gene,
It definitely looks like you’re on to something. I opened my control panel/board again and see that I may have ‘cracked’ the ribbon, likely damaging some of the wires while replacing that darn fuse. It looks like the ribbon easily comes off the board, but looks ‘built in’ to the panel. Do I need to replace the entire panel. If so, do you have the part number? Thanks! (Black Whirlpool Double Oven Model RBD275PDB12)

10

You are welcome, Scott. I’m glad it works finely.

Gene.

11

Hi,

First of all thanks for reading and for any help. I had a similar problem to the other posters, dead controls after a self-clean. The oven is a Whirlpool double, RBD275PDQ6, about 9 years old. This self-clean cycle was odd, though, because nobody set it to clean, we never do because the first time we did it blew the thermal fuse. So my wife was pre-heating for baking and the self-clean came on. Maybe she hit the button accidentally, but we tried to shut it off and it wouldn’t shut off. The display said "cool" but the elements wouldn’t turn off, so finally we had to kill the power.

So I replaced the in-line thermal fuse, reset the door lock, and the control panel came back on and the lower oven worked. The top wouldn’t heat, so I figure the thermostat is bad. I open the back of the oven and test the thermostat. No continuity, so I call the local appliance place and give them the part number I had, which was 4451442. The said that there is a new part number for the same thing, so I picked it up. It is an "FSP 9759243" and doesn’t look like the old part, but they say it’s the same. So I put it on, test for continuity, it looks good, so I turn the power on. There was a loud "pop" from the unit when the power came on, but the panel came on, and I started the top oven and it started to heat up.

About 30 minutes after the power came on, after I had the oven buttoned up and back in its cabinet, my wife smelled smoke and there was smoke coming from the control panel. I cut the power and opened up the panel, and one relay (I think, a little clear plastic box with copper coils in it) has completely burned up.

So my questions are, did I do something wrong replacing that thermostat that could have burned up the component? Was the part the appliance place gave me the right one? If I were to replace the whole electronics assembly, will it just burn something up again? Do I need a pro? Are the repairs worth it with the age of the oven?

Again, thanks for reading this long tale, and for any help.

Justin
Salt Lake City

12

[SIZE=1]Hi Gene,[/SIZE]

[SIZE=1]Thanks a lot for your response. It looks like the relay was for the upper oven "bake" element. I disconnected the wire "P5-1" in the dagram and the lower oven still works fine. As far as tracking the short, I have pretty much exhausted my electrical know-how![/SIZE]

[SIZE=1]I really appreciate your taking the time to help![/SIZE]

[SIZE=1]Justin[/SIZE]

13

Justin,

Does the Broil in the upper oven still work? If it does then there is nothing wrong with the installation of the thermal cut-off you did. It is possible that relay died by itself.

Gene.

14

Hi Gene,

I tired the upper oven on "broil" and here’s what happened: The bottom element came on and wouldn’t shut off, even after hitting the "off" switch and opening the door. I had to cut the breaker.

I don’t know what to make of this. Maybe I mis-identified the smoked relay, but according to the tech sheet the bottom element isn’t supposed to come on at all in broil mode. Is it a bad "brain," maybe?

Thanks again!

Justin

15

A fried relay on the control board definitely means the control board has gone bad. You have to replace it. I understand it is painful because of very high price for the part but the other choice is to replace the whole oven.

You can live chat with the [URL="http://www.appliancepartspros.com/index.aspx) to find the ETA for the part.

Gene.

16

Hi Gene,

Yeah, I knew when the relay burned that would mean a whole new board, they’re expensive but what can you do? That oven has a lot of hours on it. At least we can still use the lower one in the meantime.

What I’m worried about is putting in a new board and having the same thing happen. Are there some things I can test when hooking up the new board that will let me know if there’s anything shorting out before I put the power to it?

Thanks for everything,
Justin

17

justin_b said:
…What I’m worried about is putting in a new board and having the same thing happen. Are there some things I can test when hooking up the new board that will let me know if there’s anything shorting out before I put the power to it?..

Hi Justin,

As usual there are two things about it: a good one and a bad one.

Lets start with the bad: there is no way to find if the part is defective or not until you install it.

The good thing is: any part you purchased from Appliance Parts Pros comes with ONE year warranty. If it fails within a year they will exchanged it.

Gene.

18

Gene - my problem is a little different; I have model RBD275PDB10. The controls themselves seem to work: I can get both ovens to come on and the light to come on by pushing the appropriate buttons, but there is NO display at all in the control panel. This has actually been happening for several years, on an occasional basis (seemed like electrical storms or cleaning cycle use would increase the frequency) but I would normally be able to reset just by hitting any button. Now the control panel display refuses to come back on, though it occasionally beeps for no apparent reason. I am assuming that I will need to replace the control panel assembly, and am wondering what this will entail for a reasonably handy individual such as myself.

Thanks,

MG

19

Most likely the problem is a bad control board because the display is part of it.

This part is not too difficult to replace yourself. Open the lower oven door and remove the screw on each side oven trim. Lift up the trim from the bottom and slide it down. Remove the screw on each side of the control panel, pull the bottom of the control panel toward yourself and push it up to release the panel from the tabs on top.

You can live chat with the [URL="http://www.appliancepartspros.com/) to find out the eta on the part.

Here are the breakdown diagrams and http://www.appliancepartspros.com/partsearch/model.aspx?diagram_id=110707&&model_id=263691

Gene.

20

Gene - thanks a lot for your help. The control board was the problem, and as you noted, was not too difficult to replace. Expensive part, but a lot cheaper than a new oven!

MG

21

You are welcome. We are glad you were able to fix it.

Gene.