This drier stopped working for the second time - I had replaced the non-resettable thermal fuse about 4 years ago and all had been well.
Two days ago the same thing happened - except this time. after it stopped, my wife checked a couple of things then walked away from it. About 30 mins later, she smelt ‘hot metal’, checked it and discovered it was extremely hot. To cut a long story short, I unplugged it, went and got a new thermal link, replaced it then plugged it back in. The heater IMMEDIATELY came on - the door was open and the motor was not running. I pressed the start button - the motor started and the drier appeared to work.
Apparently the interlock that prevents the heater from being powered when the motor/fan is not running is dead.
Where is that interlock? Is it part of the motor switch? Is it an airflow detector vane in the fan path? The diagram I have is not specific. Wahat do I need to buy?
Have lpg gas range,both large cooktop burners have low flame .I"ve owned this range since new.I have tried several things to try and fix. :cleened buurner ports ,burner tops,orvices,ect.these are the only burners used ,it takes forever to boil water,small burners work fine,gas pressure is ok,wondering if gas controls are getting worn out or buners getting old ,I’ve checked truness of burner tops seem alright burners are slightly warped .this is a seal top burner set up ,any suggestions are welcomed THANKS
Jim, I have the same model and had exactly the same problem as yours. I only replaced the heater and 2 weeks later the frost is back. It seems that I now need to replace the thermostat and the thermistor. Before I order the parts, 'd like to hear from you if you have fixed yours? Thanks.
Remove the cover from the motherboard in the back of fridg. locate the three pin power connector on the bottom,right. Pull it off the pc board and stick a jumper between the line pin and defr., (the pc board will have these designations printed on it). Now pluc fridg in and look for defrost action in the freezer. If you have defrost, your heater and defrost terminator are good and your motherboard is bad.
Thanks a lot, Richappy! You are so right! The heating element turned red. So I need to cancel the order for thermostat and thermistor and order the motherboard instead. Is the motherboard the only part I need to replace? What about the thermostat and thermistor? Thanks again!
The newer, dual defrost heaters are much more reliable than the old ones, so you might want to install that. It is rather rare the thermisters go bad so I usually just replace the motherboard.
Also, sometimes the old motherboard has a bad solder joint on the back, might want to look for that before ordering.
Good luck.
To look for a bad solder joint, is there a typical location? Or it could be anywhere? Just FYI, this fridge was purchased in 2001. I guess it is old by now. BTW, I only found one type of defrost heater for my model GSS25JFMBWW. Will the newer dual heaters fit this model? Thanks again.
Sorry, they do not have a dual heater for this larger size refrigerator.
Locate the large relay on the board, the ribbons to it go to the 3 pin power connector. Sometimes the solder burns away from the relay pins.
Thanks, Richappy. Well, I didn’t find any burnt resistors or loose solder. I checked the voltage between J9 (blue) and J7 (orange), the two I used jumper on yesterday, and I got nothing. I felt a bit brave and tried to test the thermistors. I followed the tech manual, on J1, there is no wire for pin 1, I found VDC between pins 2 and 5, 3 and 5, 4 and 5. There is also 5 VDC between J1 pin 5 and J4 pin 3 (thermistor supply voltage). I also checked the resistance for the three thermistors (fresh food, freezer and evaporator) and all three readings were around 60-80 ohm. I thought the fresh food thermistor should have a lower reading because of the higher temp. Does this mean the thermistors are good? I ordered a new main board and will put it on when it comes. Is there anything I can test after I install the new board to make sure everything is ok? Or should I just wait and see if the frost comes back? Thanks!! I feel like going back to physics lab!
Just to close the loop, it’s been about 2 weeks since I changed the board. Yesterday, it was confirmed that the defroster came on by itself. Therefore, the problem is solved! Richappy, thanks a lot for your help!
I can’t believe this! I may have spoken too soon. almost two months after I replaced the main board, the water line is frozen and frost is building up again. I did not replace the thermostat last time. Could it be the problem? Please help! Thanks in advance.
Pull off the power connector on the motherboard and stick a jumper between def. and line pins. If no defrost current, you have a bad defrost heater or thermostat.
Replaced both thermistors today. Keeping my fingers crossed. Usually takes a couple of months for the frost to build up. Will keep you posted. Is there a quicker way to check if everything is ok now? Thanks.