I have replaced the Defrost heater, Thermostat, and the main control board. The refrigerator is still only about 50. When this first started being a problem the coils were a block of ice. It would work good for a few days after i would thaw it out.
Definitely sounds like your first problem was a defrost problem.
How long have you waited for the refrigerator section to cool down to 40.
Give it at least 24 hours.
Is your evaporator fan running?
Is the compressor running?
You should be able to hear it and it should be warm and you should be able to feel it vibrating.
compressor and fan both running.
Check the temperature in the freezer.
Should be close to 0 degrees F.
Not sure if you are familiar with fridge lingo.
The evaporator fan is the one in the freezer.
It is required to push cold air from the freezer into the fresh food side.
Check that the damper in the fresh food wall is open (Item 243 in Section 5)
Here is the parts breakdown
http://www.appliancepartspros.com/partsearch/modelsearch.aspx?model=ESS22XGMCBB
I put a clip on the damper so it has to stay open. The temp is now 65 in the fridge 0 in freezer
Give it some time to cool down.
The freezer seems OK but the fridge is still too high.
You should be able to feel cold air being blown into the fresh food side.
If yes but the temperature will not drop much in the fresh food check that the lower air return vent between the sections is clear.
no there isnt any air moving into the fridge. Now the back wall is frosting up agin.
When I put the new main board in, it said to remove the wire from pin 2 ofconnector J1. Then it had a note that this only applied to a small group of serial # prefixs. Since mine wasnt listed I didnt eliminate the wire. Shouyld I have?
It is very strange that the unit never got down to about 40 in the fresh food.
Even if the defrost cycle still exists it should have run OK for a couple days before the evaporator coils iced up enough to cause problems.
Perhaps I am interpreting your post wrong, below is my interpretation.
Unit would not cool correctly.
You found a defrost problem.
You replaced the control board, the defrost thermostat and the heater.
The freezer then got down to the correct temperature but the fresh food never did.
Is this correct?
When I put the new main board in, it said to remove the wire from pin 2 of connector J1. Then it had a note that this only applied to a small group of serial # prefixs. Since mine wasnt listed I didnt eliminate the wire. Shouyld I have?
I do not know but will put this into the tech forum section.
Hopefully someone else will have an answer.
It does look like this has something to do with one of the thermistors.
I believe the one in the freezer does effect the defrost cycle.
GE is a pain in that they like to keep their tech data a secret.
I cannot find info on this specific unit.
Here is what I have on how GE does their defrost
http://appliancejunk.com/ge/refrigerator/31-9062.pdf
Well thanks for the help.
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compressor and fan both running.
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I assume you’re talking about the fan by the compressor. What about the fan motor in the freezer area?
I worked on one of these once and I couldn’t tell if the motor was running or not. So I pulled it apart until I could get to the fan motor. The motor had voltage but wouldn’t turn. Bad bearings. (I also found out that the motor can take out the computer.) I replaced the motor and it still wouldn’t run, because the board wasn’t putting any voltage out by that time. I ended up replacing both and finally got airflow to the fresh food side.
Needless to say GE is not my favorite brand.
If your evap motor is running, make sure the air passages are all clear of frost. Good luck.