Fridge warm, freezer is fine - Can it be the dampers if they pass the diagnostics?

I’ve searched and I didn’t find the answer to this. My fridge recently went through some strange issues. The fresh food side was freezing the food and the temp control buttons would not respond (just beep). The freezer side was -4 or colder. Since I couldn’t do any diagnostics (buttons wouldn’t work) I turned off the breaker and let it sit for about 8 hours with the doors open.
Once I turned it back on it seemed to work well and got back to 0 and 37. This lasted about two weeks and the fresh food side started creeping up and leveled off at about 50. Pressing the temp buttons, I could enter 0 and 37 and it wouldn’t change the temps.
On possibly an unrelated note, for the last few months, about once a day, we had water drip from the top of the fresh food section when the door was opened. I assumed this was related to the defrost cycle but I wasn’t sure.
After reading some forum posts I thought the main board had gone bad and I replaced it last night. I’m now able to go through the diagnostics and everything seems to check out ok.
Currently, the freezer is -4 and the fresh food side is stuck at 48. There seems to be no airflow to the fresh food section even though the dampers test ok.
I feel like the fix is right in front of me but I can’t find it. Any help would be greatly appreciated.

Quick update: As of this morning, it’s down to 43 in the fridge. This is better but it seems like it would have dropped more than 5 degrees overnight.