The fridge stop cooling and makes a click noise like a clock. After pushing the Turbo Cool button it clicks faster but does not start cooling again…after many attempt, it restarts cooling but control panel does not showing temperature correctly. After about 8 hrs the fridge stop cooling again and after many attempt using the Turbo Cool it eventually starts again but after a few hours now…Same thing happen after 8 hrs. Which parts seems to be replace, the mother board only?
If the clicking noise is from the motherboard, it needs to be replaced, just order it here.
Thank you for your answer. This morning the clicking noise is gone, the fridge does not cool and the turbo cool does not start. Still the motherboard?
If the evaporator fan is running, but the compressor is not, remove the motherboard cover and locate the big, three pin power connector.Unplug the connector and place a wire jumper between the connector mating pins labeled line and comp. as shown on the motherboard, then plug fridg in. If the compressor now runs, replace the motherboard, AP4436216
Didn’t do anything, cannot find the big three pin power connector. There are 5 connector connected to the mother board and another one hanging (see link attached). When I plugged again the fridge to the power, clicking was back on, nothing else is running. If a new motherboard will fix the fridge then will do so.
Thank you
FD
There is only one 3 pin power connector at the bottom of the board, just look for it, i plugs in the side of the board.
I got it, it was the grey plug with the 3 vertical plates pins on the bottom. I did the relay between "Line" and "Comp". I plugged the fridge, Tic Tac sound came back all the time…the compressor tried to restarts a few time without success during a good 5 minutes lap.
FD
I located the plug, see reply above. Thanks FD
Remove the compressor side cover and pry off the ptc device, a small, black device, if it rattles, replace it AP4438816. If you have an ohms meter check it’s resistance across the compressor terminals. should be between 5 and 10 ohms.
I pried off the PTC device (white box for the motor attached to a propeller) it does not rattle when I shake it or turn the propeller, no signs or smell of damage. I do not have an Ohms meter.
I responded yesterday that the PTC does not rattle. What’s seems to be the problem then, what is/are the part(s) to replace? Any more test?
Those small ptc devices sometimes will not rattle even though they are blown. Get a meter to test it, or order a new one.
I measured the resistance of the PTC device (number 811 on diagram, Fridge model PDS22SISDRSS from GE) I unplugged the connector of the PTC, it has 4 small pins, I tried different one and got these measurements: 18.6 KΩ, 17.2 MΩ, 1.7 KΩ and 20.4 KΩ. At the compressor I unconnected the connector from the power cord and measured: 3.4 Ω. I am not understanding what you mean by: check its resistance "across" the compressor terminals. Please let me know.
We have been now without a fridge for more than 10 days. I followed your instruction accurately. As today I still do not know which part to replace and purchase. Thank you for your prompt respond in this matter.