GE Profile Washer Won't Agitate or Spin

Washer Repair
1

Washer stopped agitating and spinning yesterday. Still fills and drains as usual. The LED on the top of the inverter is blinking 1 second on 1 second off, indicating no problems.

After reading through older threads and finding the service guide for the washer, I’ve done the following:

  • Reset the washer by opening and closing 10 times in 12 seconds after plugging back in. No change after this.
  • Tested the inline fuse, it was good.
  • Tested the lid switch, working properly. Tried bypassing it just in case, still no spin or agitate.
  • Put it in field service mode to check voltages at the inverter:
  • In spin test mode, C2 pin 5 to pin 3 getting 120 VAC and same for 6 to 3, so the motor is getting power
  • In spin test mode, C4 pin 5 to pin 3 showing 9 VDC and same for pin 5 to pin 4. These are supposed to be 12VDC, right?

I’m thinking the motor is probably good and I need a new control board. Is 9 VDC instead of 12VDC enough to keep the motor from running? Are there more tests I should do to be sure?

3

The voltage drop is probably enough to keep the motor from running. Go ahead and change out the control unit, and if you buy from this site and that is not the problem you can return it.

4

9vdc is the correct voltage for inverter board input on this model. With service mode set to spin mode, you should have 9vdc between C4 pin 5 to pin 1, pin 5 to pin 2, pin 5 to pin 3 and pin 5 to pin 4. The 9 volts does not drive the motor, it is just an input to the inverter to tell it what mode to operate in. The inverter board generates 340vdc to drive the motor. Looks like you have a faulty motor/inverter.

Eric

5

fairbank56 said:
9vdc is the correct voltage for inverter board input on this model.

Eric

Thanks for setting me straight, Eric. I was looking at the wrong service guide. Voltages on C4 from 5 to other pins are 9vdc all the way across. Looks like I should try a new motor/inverter first. Thanks for your help! I’ll post again after installing a new motor.

6

New motor/inverter is in and the washer is working again! Thanks for your help.

The motor came with a harness fuse jumper kit, which I assumed should be installed along with the new motor. Did I make the correct assumption? I kept the fuse just in case I need to re-install it.

Is there anything we should avoid that might kill a motor sooner? We had a big load of bed sheets in when the last one quit. Might that have anything to do with it, or is it just a coincidence?

Thanks again for your help!

7

Yes, the fuse should be removed when installing the new motor. The new motors have a higher inrush current and can blow the fuse. Hard to say what caused the original motor to fail.

Eric

8

fairbank56 said:
Yes, the fuse should be removed when installing the new motor. The new motors have a higher inrush current and can blow the fuse. Hard to say what caused the original motor to fail.

Eric
I have the exact same problem as WisconsinMatt

  • Put it in field service mode to check voltages at the inverter:
    In spin mode:
  • C2 pin 5 to pin 3 and 6 to 3 120 VAC, power reaches the motor board, normal as the manual says
  • C4 pin 5 to 3, 5 to 4, 5 to 2 and 5 to 1 showing 9 VDC, normal
    The issue is with C7 pin 1-2. I got 305 VDC constantly instead of 30 VDC
    What is the issue? Is it the inverter board or the main control board?
    If it’s the former, is it possible to replace the inverter board only or do I have to change the motor + inverter?
    Thanks,