The range top burners do not spark although oven and everything else works fine. I obtained a new (unopened package) OEM spark igniter module (same model as original) and replaced it making sure wiring was replaced as it should be. Still no spark at any burner. I have not yet checked for 120V and polarity although wires were not switched around. Thanks for any help.
Can you be more specific on the problem?
Gene.
Yes, the stove top burners do not light automatically. The ignitor stopped clicking awhile ago forcing us to use matches. I just ordered a new ignitor unit . Hopefully that will solve the problem.
It is a GE XL44 Model JGBP30AEW1AA.
The ignitor is a Kool Lite Harper-Wyman Model 6544G10.
If you have any other suggestions on how I can test that I’m replacing the right part, I would appreciate it.
There is no spark and no clicking sound.
Thanks!
Check if the cook top is properly grounded.
Make sure all burners are grounded and clean from any grease.
Make sure all igniters are not damaged and are in in the correct position in the flame.
Check all igniters wiring for damaged insulation.
Make sure there is no reversed polarity.
Gene.
Thanks, Gene. I had not replaced the machine screws holding the burner "pans" in place because I didn’t want to have to remove them again. I’ve now screwed them in place and it appears to have stopped the malfunction.
— Begin quote from Gene;23720
Check if the cook top is properly grounded.
Make sure all burners are grounded and clean from any grease.
Make sure all igniters are not damaged and are in in the correct position in the flame.
Check all igniters wiring for damaged insulation.
Make sure there is no reversed polarity.
Gene.
— End quote
Gene, I have a similar problem but at the spark module where the four wires from the burner controls enter, there is also a small metal plate separating 2 of the four control wires. A spark is jumping from one of the control wires on the left of the plate to the plate every 2 second. Do you think that replacing the spark module is a good bet to solve this. Thank you!
tabpilot,
What is the complete model number of the unit?
Gene.
Gene, I wanted to add that the spark doesn’t happen until I put the burner module on. Is this completing a circuit? Thanks.
Which part did you call "burner module"? Can you refer it to the break down diagrams, using a reference number?
Here are the break down diagrams for the GE cooktop http://www.appliancepartspros.com/partsearch/model.aspx?diagram_id=454746&&model_id=214777
Gene.
tabpilot,
You quoted me in your very first post. Did you check all these stuff?
Gene.
I have GE sealed gas cooktop with model # JGP933SEF1SS and the four igniters are constantly sparking even while the knob is in the off position or the on position, until I unplug it. There hasn’t been a spill on the cooktop. I cleaned the ceramic igniters without any resolution. Would there be a problem with the spark module or harness switch? I appreciate your help.
The first thing I would check are the knobs. Pull them out, one by one, and check for any crack from the bottom where it’s attached to the valve stem.
If there is nothing wrong then second failure suspect are the ignition switches. They are sold as a switch harness assembly which includes all switches in one harness. You can disconnect both harness terminals and check them for continuity. If the circuit is closed while all the switches are in the "off" position, then the problem is there.
If all of the above is good then the problem is a bad spark module.
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The part number for the knob is [AP3778816](http://www.appliancepartspros.com/part_details.aspx?part_id=3427235"]AP3427235[/URL]
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AP3783914The part number for the switch harness is
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The part number for the spark module is [URL="http://www.appliancepartspros.com/part_details.aspx?part_id=3778816)
Gene.
I have a GE XL44 (JGB920SEC3SS) range. One burner’s igniter won’t spark, the other 3 and the oven are fine. The burners and base seem fine, and the screws are tight. The igniter tip looks like the other three. Ideas?
I have the same stove - with Kool Lite model 6544g10 ignitor unit - but the issue for me is my oven is not lighting cause the pezzo or whatever it is called has a broken tip - is that ignition lighter included when you replace the 6544G10 ?
I just swapped the left rear igniter for the right rear igniter. The problem remained in the left rear. So, the igniter is fine, it must be related to the wire, the connection or the actual igniter module. I don’t see how I get to the part. Anyone know?
My issue was the OVEN was not igniting - not the stove top - and when I took off the pan cover at the bottom of the oven I could look at the ignitor and see there was major deterioration on the ignitor - part no 12400035 - problem solved. And I am ready down the road for the next time - which will never happen cause I am prepared for it - it will obviuosly be something else.
Hello There, I am new here and I really could use some help. I have GE stove model JGSP23BEY2BB. Problem looks like is with the ignition module , but I would feel much better if you expert agree with me also. One of the burner does not lite occasionally and I have to use a lighter to lite it. I am not sure how it all started but I do have one of the rear burner left disconnected. Since one burner is left disconnected do you think it may be causing a problem for one of the other one not to ignite. Any help will be welcomed.Thanks.
Does its igniter spark? Does it make a clicking noise? Would it spark if you turn on any other burner?
Gene.
Lex,
Most likely the problem is a bad ignition switch for this burner (#323 on the [B]diagram[/B]).
- The ignition (gas valve) switch AP3191247
Here are the breakdown diagrams and http://www.appliancepartspros.com/partsearch/model.aspx?model_id=214965
Gene.
There are four of such switches. They are located on top of the gas burner valve (under the knob). It turns the ignition on when you turn the knob on. Check the diagrams.
Gene.