We have this model and we noticed awhile ago that the machine would not always spin when there was a heavy load of towels.
This is happening more and more where the washer will not spin or agitate on some occassions but will complete a fulkl cycle on other occasions.
What would cause it to work sometimes but not others.
I had the front off and the belt is intact. When the machine is not agitating or spinning the the motor moves a little but stops.
the blinking light seems to blink steadily without a pattern, or possible it speeds up for a few blinks then resumes steady blinking (hard to tell)
After a few tests the machine will work again and be good for a few loads and then not spin. it has started not spinning with smaller loads as well.
Any help is appreciated. i would rather fix this then buy a new one unless the cost of repair is within $100.00 or so of a new machine
Thanks
Russ
Assume the last part of model number is G0WW, not 60WW? You need to check closely for flashing inverter error code. With washer in standby, it should flash on 1 second, off 1 second continuously. While operating, on 1/2 second, off 1/2 second continuously. If there is an error, it will flash at a rate of 1/4 second on/off during a 6 second window for specific code, then off for remainder of 6 second period. The number of times it was on during the 6 seconds is the error code.
Eric
I had the model # incorrect it is WHDRR418G0WW
I took the front panel off and ran a regular cycle.
The machine filled up. Then the motor engaged and it went slowly back and forth a few times, then nothing for a while. The machine then drained and then did nothing for awhile. Then it filled and did nothing except make a ticking noise.
The machine then drained but did not spin.
The green light on the circuit board blinks steadily the wile time (on 1/2 second off 1/2 second)
Does that mean anything?
Sounds like a bad lid switch. After the tub fills, the inverter runs a mode shifter agitate program where it makes the motor turn back and forth a few times to make sure the mode shifter cam has released. After that, it should go into regular agitate mode but it won’t do that if the lid switch is open nor will it spin. It could be working intermittently which could cause it to work sometimes and sometimes not. The lid switch is hardwired so you will have to remove the top cover to gain access to the lid switch wires. You can then snip the wires (unplug washer), strip the wires and wirenut them together temporarily to see if it will work. If it works, just get a new switch and install it.
To get the top cover off, remove front panel first, remove the lid switch by reaching under and push in on the holding clips and pop it up and then shove it back down thru the hole. Remove the two screws holding the top cover to the cabinet. Pull the top cover towards you and slide to the left to release it from the control panel. There may be a wire holding clip (lid switch wires) underneath that you have to remove before completely removing the top cover.
Eric
Would it still drain if the lid switch was bad?
Yes, drain is by electric pump via timer, lid switch is not in that circuit.
Eric
The fuse is in the neutral wire feed to the motor/inverter. If it was blown, the motor would not operate at all, the error code led would not flash.
Eric
Thanks! i will try to bypass the lid switch tonight.
I appreciate the help.
I sniped the wires to the lid switch and banded them together with a wire nut. Unfortunately still no agitating or spinning.
The green light continues to blink steadily.
Any other options?
You did tie the wires together that are going into the wiring harness and not the wires from the lid switch, right 
I know, dumb question, just gotta be sure.
If true, the next step is to take some voltage measurments on the inverter plugs. Do you have a multimeter?
I snipped the two wires that attached to the ld switch and tied them together.
Was that incorrect. I thought hat would complete the circuit
When you snip the two wires, you now have four wire ends. Connect the two ends that go into the wire harness together, not the two ends that actually go to the lid switch.
I can get a meter tomorrow. What should I check?
Ps the pre agitate check is no longer happening
Need to check for 120 volts AC with one lead of the multimeter always on the white/red wire of the leftmost connector. Place the meter probe up into the bottom of the connector with the wire making sure you have contact with the metal pin. You should have 120 volts AC on the orange wire and the red/black wire of the same connector. When the washer should be in high speed agitate mode, normal cycle, on the rightmost connector, you should have 120 volts AC on the blue wire and the violet/white wire. For low speed agitate, the white and violet/white wire. For high speed spin, the blue and red wires and for low speed spin, the white and red wires.
Do not touch the motor case during testing as it is not grounded.
Reconnect your lid switch and operate it a couple times. Make sure there are no error codes flashing on the inverter. The inverter monitors lid openings and if you run two complete cycles without it seeing the lid open, it will shut down the motor and initiate an error code.
To reset and clear error codes, unplug the washer for at least 30 seconds, plug back in and open/close the lid at least 6 times within 12 seconds.
Eric
Going to try again now. Does it matter which lead I use on the red/white wire?
No, it doesn’t, you didn’t follow my directions.
Ok. I’m not 100% sure I did this correctly.
With the red lead in with the red/white wire on the far left connector I seem to have gotten less than 120 V from the red/black and orange wires - it looked to be around 80V
The other wires seemed to be getting 120V in the various cycles.
Does that mean anything?
Thanks for helping
I ran the tests again with the red lead in the black/red wire.
The black lead on the orange and red/black wires was reading 0.
The black lead on the far right connector during the first agitate stage was reading th estate voltage on all the wires.
I am unfamiliar with the multimeter but I have an analog meter on a 125 DCV setting and the needle was all the way up.
Thanks for your patience!
I’m not having much confidence in the information your giving me nor in your abilities to do the electrical troubleshooting. This is AC voltage were measuring here, not DC. It would be very simple for me to determine whether this is a motor issue, timer issue or wiring issue by taking some AC voltage measurements but I’m very experienced at it and you basically have no experience, so I really can’t help you any further. You could try the shotgun approach by simply replacing the motor and/or timer in hopes it’s one or the other but it may end up being a wiring/connection issue.
Eric
Hi Eric,
I am going have someone more expierenced with electrical troubleshooting come over tonight and take the measurements on the various wires. i will post the results afterwards.
I have never used a mulitmeter before. I would rather diagnose the problem rather than buy the motor and have that not be the issue.
Thanks again for your help.