I have a Whirlpool LER5620KQ1 dryer, which has been a solid performer over the years. A few months back, the auto-dry sensor must have died, because the dryer would just run forever. So I began using it on the timed cycles, and its been fine. Today, the timer seems to have died now, it just never shuts off. I have had no issues locating the timer for this dryer, but if I’m tearing into this thing, I’m replacing the belt and would like to replace that sensor as well. Looking for a part number and/or part name, I havent been able to find anything that sounds like it would be the right part.
As you can see from the wiring diagram you do not have a moisture sensor.
The way the unit works in Auto modes is that when the heater is switched/cycled off the timer gets it’s power through the heat element.
When the heater is switched on the timer does not advance.
Since the timer does not run in auto then the possible causes are a grounded element or contacts OR/TM in the timer are shot.
Since you are opening it up I would also check the following front supports, drum seals, rear rollers, idler roller etc.
Might as well give it a bit of an overhaul.
I would also give the interior a good cleaning including the blower wheel.
Also clean/check your vent system.
So to clarify, since I am replacing the timer due to the other issue, would you suiggest I start there, and if that doesnt solve the entire problem then replace the heating element? I believe the timer is Part Number: AP3131541, but I am kind of guessing at the heater - would that be Part Number: AP3094254?
Good recommendations on the other parts, I planned on the belt and that was it. The parts you recommend are cheap, and your advice is very much appreciated!
As you can see from the wiring diagram you do not have a moisture sensor.
The way the unit works in Auto modes is that when the heater is switched/cycled off the timer gets it’s power through the heat element.
When the heater is switched on the timer does not advance.
Since the timer does not run in auto then the possible causes are a grounded element or contacts OR/TM in the timer are shot.
Since you are opening it up I would also check the following front supports, drum seals, rear rollers, idler roller etc.
Might as well give it a bit of an overhaul.
I would also give the interior a good cleaning including the blower wheel.
Also clean/check your vent system.
So to clarify, since I am replacing the timer due to the other issue, would you suiggest I start there, and if that doesnt solve the entire problem then replace the heating element?
You can go this route but perhaps you would be better off getting a meter first. See below.
This will let you check both items.
Timer
Place the meter on voltage and measure across the timer motor terminals while running. If it is getting 120 volts AC and not advancing it is toast for sure.
Heater.
Unplug the machine, unplug the wires at the heater, measure the heater resistance, should be around 10 ohms. Then set the meter to a higher scale and measure each heater contact to the case/frame, should be infinite resistance (an open)
I believe the timer is Part Number: AP3131541, but I am kind of guessing at the heater - would that be Part Number: AP3094254?
Yes the above numbers are correct.
If you do not own a meter, I would suggest you purchase a one. You can get a decent digital multimeter for under $20.00. You do not need fancy though it is nice if the leads are a couple feet long.
If it saves ordering one unnecessary part it has paid for itself and you end up owning a useful tool.
Most places will not let you return electrical parts so if you order it, you own it.
A couple things to watch when measuring ohms and continuity
Always remove power from the machine otherwise you could blow your meter.
Always disconnect at least one side of any device you are checking. This eliminates the possibility of measuring an alternate/parallel circuit path.
When checking for closed contacts and continuity use the lowest scale (Usually 200 ohms). Then try higher scales. This scale is 0 to 200 ohms so if the device you are measuring is 300 ohms this scale would show an open circuit which it is not, you are just measuring outside the scale’s dynamic range.
There is a good STICKY at the start of this forum about it’s use.