I have a kitchenaid refrigerator that suddenly stopped running. Thelight inside the unit comes on but there is no sound coming from any of the components other than a sligh click by the ADC. I read the voltage at the pins of the ADC and I have 120 VAC at pin 1 but some fluctuating mV at pin 6 or white wire. In accordance with a pamphlet I found on the web, it states that 120 VAC should be fed to pin 1 and 6. Yet the same 120 VAC is being applied to the light bulb and the light comes on fine. It also states in the cooling mode 120 VAC should come out of pin 4. I have nothing coming out. I want to make sure that the ADC is the culprit before I order it as I don’t see any movement from other components like the compressor, relays, thermo switches etc. Is the ADC a high failure component? Where else can I look to further isolate the fault. Thanks in advance. As you can imagine we have no fridge so the pressure is on and any help you guys can give me will be GREATLY appreciated. 
Hey Gene,
Thanks for the reply. Here is what I did…I read the voltage across pin 1 and 6 and got the 120VAC. Unplugging the plug and reading across the same two pins got the same 120VAC. (I put the black lead on pin 1 and the red lead on pin 6) I read the voltage across pin 1 and 4 and I get 120VAC. This is supposed to be the cooling mode. Wouldn’t that indicate that the signal is being sent to the compressor/overloadswitch etc?
I am having a real tough time pulling these connectors, are they supposed to be this hard to disconnect? I was trying to conduct the resistance measurements on the compressor but I can’t even see the connection to get the connector off and perform the readings.
Just read the thermostat and it reads an open with the thermostat off and continuity with the thermostat in the warmest setting but not off so that is eliminated. I will try to eliminate the compressor next.
Ok, I disconnected the two piece section that is attached to the compressor cover by a plastic housing. I read the windings to each other and got 2.4 ohms. Read each to the chassis and got an open so the compressor is eliminated. I read the two piece component (PTC Relay?)that connects to the compressor and got 5.6 ohms between the blue and white wire connections either at pin 5 and 6 or pin 2 and 3.
In accordance to the schematic this is how I am reading:
M (run side) is the blue wire or pin 3 and 5 in the PTC relay
S (Start side) is the white wire or pin 2 and 6 on the PTC relay
Please let me know if I am on the right track.
With the thermostat at the coldest setting there is 20-45mV across the red and white wires.
Thank you very much Gene, I just ordered the part you told me. I will report the results. Thank you so much!
Hello Gene,
Just wanted to report back that I received the part you suggested and worked like a charm. Thank you very much for your timely information and advice. God Bless you.
Regards,
WR
My question is I ordered a evaporator fan motor and the motor that I recieved is not like the one I removed from the refrigerator. The motor has a sealed coil that came out and the one that I recieved is not a sealed coil. when you enlarge the picture different views come up and it has a picture of the one that I removed from the frig. The connections are different also on the motor. Will this motor work since it doesnt have a sealed coil on it. The part numbers are the same. The only difference is one has a sealed coil and different location of the wire connections. the model is ED25CQXFN01 WHIRLPOOL AND MANUFACTURED IN 1999 THE PART NUMBER THAT I RECIEVED 4389144
My electric dryer is does not heating up. I have checked the circuit breaker and they are not tripped. I have also unpluged it for 24 hrs and still no heat.
gary, it is either the element or the thermal fuse, mounted on the top left side of the element housing. if you have a ohm meter, unplug the dryer, and ohm it out. make sure you pull the wires off of either part when you ohm it out. tom %url%
When you checked your breaker did you just look at it or did you turn it off then back on. Often if you loose half the line it will not trip the breaker.
Best way is to check with a meter to ensure you have 240 volts.
Is the Whirlpool RCK986 coil element cartridge from the RC8900 series electric downdraft cooktop interchangable with the Jennair JEA7000ADS coil element cartridge. The Whirlpool unit is no longer available and the Jenn-Air unit and connectionslooks identical.
I am not a technician, but want to prevent others from spending as much time and energy on this as I have.
I just spent $24 to get an answer from the whirlpool/JennAir technicians at Just Answer.com. They pointed me to a sized diagram of the Jennair JEA7000ADS coil element cartridge http://www.************************.com/SSPartDetail.aspx?s=t-JEA7000ADS-%3d%3di883538&PartID=883538 and even though the four prong on this diagram vs. five prong in my RCK986 (the middle prong really being a center pin) would have worked just fine, Jenn Air has added extra length in between the burners so the length of the Jennair JEA7000ADS coil element cartridge is more than an inch longer.
i.e. Many of the aspects of this cartridge are close, but this JennAir cartridge (883538–11" x 20 3/4") is a little longer than my whirlpool (10 3/4" x 18 3/4"). Still the same size burners, but It looks like this JennAir model has added a little extra length in the middle. It’s been a really nice unit…but will need to upgrade soon.
I wasted too much time on this subject also. I guess my daughter’s landlord will have to replace the whole range.:eek: